Type: Trad, 800 ft, 5 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,856 total · 17/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Apr 2, 2011
Admins: Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski, Jason Halladay

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Access Issue: Power drilling is prohibited in the Organ Mountains Wilderness. Details

Description

A nice beginner route up the beautiful east buttress of ORP. The first 3 pitches are excellent.

P1: Start at the base of the gully on the south of the east buttreess of ORP. Climb easy terrain up past a tree and on towards the top of a shoulder. 100'.

P2: Climb a series of low angle cracks, passing a nice ledge and ending up on another broad ledge beneath a steeper "headwall", 100'.

P3: 5.6, the "crux" pitch. A wide chimney like crack, but not chimney like climbing. Good protection and holds abound. At the top the angle drops back to 4th class boulders to the top of a major shoulder on the buttress.

P4: 4th class but exposed scrambling around the corner to climbers left and down into the gully to the south of the buttress. ONce in the gully and obvious corner system can be seen on the right-hand side. Unfortunately 60m is not enough to get you from the shoulder up to the top, so stop and belay wherever you can find a comforatble spot. ~150'.

P5: 5.4 up the corner, which has one reachy move that will make you stop and think for a moment. At the top of the corner, the angle eases back to 3rd class boulders and slabs to the summit. Again, a 60m rope isn't long enough to reach the summit, so a final anchor point may be necessary to bring up a second before 3rd classing up to the top.

Location

Located on the south side of the east buttress of ORP. The east buttress is roughly divided in two lobes by a giant chimney system, the first 3 pitches of Orgy climb up the south lobe. Approach by Rabbit Ears Canyon until near the base of the route. Although it possible to hike in between ORP and Lesser Spire and then scramble down into the canyon to the east, this is a terrible idea if climbing ORP or other east buttress routes is your goal.

Descend by first climbing up a short pitch (~15-20ft, ~5.4, often free-soloed though it can be lead) going south from the saddle between ORP and Rabbit Ears Massif. Walk through a rock tunnel for a short ways and then eventually locate a steep, brushy gully filled with loose rock that can be descended back down to Rabbit Ears Canyon to the east. From the Canyon, retrace the approach. There are other options for descending ORP involving rappels, but they are problematic and should be avoided.

Protection

Pure traditional goodness, there is not a shred of fixed gear along the entire climb.

Photos