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Routes in ORP

Orgy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Running on Empty T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
West Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 800 ft, 5 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,523 total · 17/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Apr 2, 2011
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

A nice beginner route up the beautiful east buttress of ORP. The first 3 pitches are excellent.

P1: Start at the base of the gully on the south of the east buttreess of ORP. Climb easy terrain up past a tree and on towards the top of a shoulder. 100'.

P2: Climb a series of low angle cracks, passing a nice ledge and ending up on another broad ledge beneath a steeper "headwall", 100'.

P3: 5.6, the "crux" pitch. A wide chimney like crack, but not chimney like climbing. Good protection and holds abound. At the top the angle drops back to 4th class boulders to the top of a major shoulder on the buttress.

P4: 4th class but exposed scrambling around the corner to climbers left and down into the gully to the south of the buttress. ONce in the gully and obvious corner system can be seen on the right-hand side. Unfortunately 60m is not enough to get you from the shoulder up to the top, so stop and belay wherever you can find a comforatble spot. ~150'.

P5: 5.4 up the corner, which has one reachy move that will make you stop and think for a moment. At the top of the corner, the angle eases back to 3rd class boulders and slabs to the summit. Again, a 60m rope isn't long enough to reach the summit, so a final anchor point may be necessary to bring up a second before 3rd classing up to the top.

Location

Located on the south side of the east buttress of ORP. The east buttress is roughly divided in two lobes by a giant chimney system, the first 3 pitches of Orgy climb up the south lobe. Approach by Rabbit Ears Canyon until near the base of the route. Although it possible to hike in between ORP and Lesser Spire and then scramble down into the canyon to the east, this is a terrible idea if climbing ORP or other east buttress routes is your goal.

Descend by first climbing up a short pitch (~15-20ft, ~5.4, often free-soloed though it can be lead) going south from the saddle between ORP and Rabbit Ears Massif. Walk through a rock tunnel for a short ways and then eventually locate a steep, brushy gully filled with loose rock that can be descended back down to Rabbit Ears Canyon to the east. From the Canyon, retrace the approach. There are other options for descending ORP involving rappels, but they are problematic and should be avoided.

Protection

Pure traditional goodness, there is not a shred of fixed gear along the entire climb.

Photos

Eugene Staley
Albuquerque, New Mexico
  5.6
Eugene Staley   Albuquerque, New Mexico
  5.6
I believe that this is a little stiff for a 5.6, not quite a 5.7.
No matter, this is on of my favorite routes so far. Jul 29, 2012
Marta Reece
Las Cruces, NM
 
Marta Reece   Las Cruces, NM  
 
I do not recommend rapping down the gully to the south of Orgy. The two lower rappels are protected by a single piton each. The first is small and rusty, the second takes an exposed technical move to reach it.

My preferred way is to go down the next gully to the south. From the saddle on top of Orgy head toward the small peak opposite ORP and climb up a short, vertical crack, the one pointing at the prominent V of rocks on top of the photo (5.6). Scramble though the V and up to the left into a chimney style cut in rocks with a flat bottom. Walk through the cut to the other side.

The gully has some loose rock and brush, but is passable all the way down. When it does look like you may have to rap, just go to the left of the slick looking rocks and you should find an easy, stemming down-climb.



Alternatively, it is possible to rap down to the west. This is the fastest way to get back.

From the top of Orgy rap into the gully south and west of the saddle. The rappel as set up is awkward to get onto. It should be continued as far as possible. Do not stop at the first flat ground encountered.

Continue down the gully through dense brush, fortunately generally without stickers. Once on top of rock look for a sling on a small tree. The first rap (about 100 feet) is to a substantial tree. The second requires two ropes and ends in the gully south of Southern Comfort Wall, at this altitude also south of Lesser Spire. The scramble down the gully is easier on the south side where there are more boulder fields. Cross over to the trail at the base of Southern Comfort Wall near the bottom end of it. Jul 29, 2012
Marta Reece
Las Cruces, NM
 
Marta Reece   Las Cruces, NM  
 
It is possible top avoid the exposed traverse which may be challenging to protect for your second. Just continue up after Pitch 3 on the right side of the middle of the buttress over broken rock, then climb up and to the left through the obvious window. On the other side down-climb few feet and head right to a tree.

The moves along this route are easy and can be protected. The rock is not as unstable as it looks, but overall this variation is uninviting. Taking the traverse is cleaner even if more, shall we say, "inspiring." Jul 29, 2012
Mike Stowe
  5.6
Mike Stowe  
  5.6
Tried to climb Orgy this past weekend and Josh Hamling (leader) and myself went left of the ORGY route..following a system of cracks...probably a stiff 5.8 at the 3rd pitch as protection is limited....pretty cool route. Wondering if this is a first ascent or if someone else has attempted this variation?

I can post a picture as well..which i working on now. Apr 7, 2014
Hamish Malin
Fredericksburg, VA
 
Hamish Malin   Fredericksburg, VA
 
Wow what a fun route!! Stopped at the class 4 to set a belay after pitch three, but then climbed the last ~20ft of what was basically a fin when we started P4, this then led to a downclimb back to the traverse on P4. If I did again, I would set my belay on top of the fin, this requires P4 to start with a (easy) downclimb but the position on top of the fin is spectacular. P5 did not feel like class 4 to me, more like 5.5. I was also pretty dehydrated at this point... Aug 2, 2018
Hamish Malin
Fredericksburg, VA
 
Hamish Malin   Fredericksburg, VA
 
Beta on MP for ORP in general is confusing at best. We approached via SoCo, then had a brutal hike around the northern side of ORP. Bushwhacking around the crest was 5.brutal. Total approach took 4.5 hours; we departed through the next valley to the north after rapping east buttress which was much more navigable. Rapped gulley on the south side of east buttress, which was miserable. Tons of loose rock, thick brush, and one chopped rope
:(. Bring slings to back up the garbage raps you’re bound to encounter - don’t think this gets much traffic. P2 and P3 are great!! Aug 2, 2018
Drew Chojnowski
Las Cruces, NM
  5.7
Drew Chojnowski   Las Cruces, NM  
  5.7
Hamish Malin: sorry about the previously-misleading beta. Not that it helps you out now, but the Location section above has been improved so as to not suggest insane approaches as equally viable to the normal easy approach. The best descent route, involving no rappels at all, is also now recommended and better described. Some friends and I confirmed yesterday that the gully scramble is best by trying a descent from ORP into the SW gully. This turned out to be totally miserable with extreme bushwacking, awkward rappels into spiky brush, stuck ropes, rattlesnake, etc. Aug 20, 2018

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