Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Whale

Aborigine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Among the Stars S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Aphrodite S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Arapiles S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Arnold's Demise S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Big E S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blow Tube Envy S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bound in Blood S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Captain, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dreamtime S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Esse Curve S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Finnacle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
First Mate S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gomers in Blue Shirts S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Good Stuff, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
HMS S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Happy Ending (formerly Top-Rope) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Honeymoon Down Under S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Just Happens S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Mister MIA S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Never Ever Slab, The TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Plunge, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Red Venus S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Route to the left of The Thin Line S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tempest Toast S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thin Line, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Undulating Dingo S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Virgin Bolters S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Whale Rider S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Brian Shelton & Stewart Green, 2004
Page Views: 1,306 total, 16/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 31, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

This line was originally published as a top-rope problem on the left side of The Never Ever Slab. It apparently needed a lot more cleaning. Now it hosts 5 bolts and delicate climbing. The first crux comes after the 1st bolt and seems to trend right. It seemed reachy, but even 5'1" climbers figured it out. There is a section below the 5th bolt that has a friable edge (part of which broke), so tread lightly. The second crux, near the 5th bolt, seems to pull you slightly left. Again, this seemed reachy, but a 5'1" climber pushed through.

The anchor bolts are far enough below the tree above that a short rappel or belay would be advised for a top rope. Alternatively, the tree has been used for an anchor in the past.

Location

This lies on the left side of The Never Ever Slab. It is down and left of Dreamtime and left of the Solar Wall.

Protection

5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor (one with a rap ring and the other with 2 links).

Per Ken Pischke: the 1st bolt is now missing its hanger.

Photos

Patrick Yarbrough
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Patrick Yarbrough   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Super sketchy. There's a couple decently big flakes that are ready to go, I could feel them flexing under my grip. Not bad climbing, it just needs to clean up further. Dec 21, 2016
The first bolt is missing its hanger at this time. Nov 30, 2013