Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine, 542 ft (164 m), 4 pitches, Grade V
FA: Bruce Hendricks and Joe Josephson
Page Views: 7,883 total · 50/month
Shared By: Noah McKelvin on Mar 30, 2011
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose

You & This Route

4 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

When in condition as of the first ascent, this climb becomes one of the hardest ice routes anywhere. (WI7+ R) When the sustained thin ice turns into thicker ice, expect to see difficulties in the WI5+/6 range.

As much as I'd like to say I did it in WI7+ R condition, I didn't. I'll explain the climb in the conditions I found.

In 7+ condition Joe Josephson explains that the belay anchors are solid in the rock but besides that there is no gear leading, just sustained steep thin ice with a couple of overhangs.

P1 Climb the WI5 Postcriptum Pillar for 40 meters until you arrive at the hanging bolt belay. (Only bolts on the climb) Continue to stare at the next pitch.

P2 Climb up to the top of the pillar and enter the "Whipper Traverse." The pitons there are quite interesting. OR place a high screw and traverse directly right skipping the Whipper Traverse with a couple of M4/5 moves to Sea of Vapors. I did not do the Whipper Traverse and skirted right before it so I cannot speak for how hard it is. I have heard M6 or M7. Continue up funky vertical ice for a while until the ground eases in angle. (85 degrees)

P3 Continue up a fun pitch of exposed WI5 climbing until a belay can be made. If your lucky, there is sometimes a cave that makes one of the best belay stations I've been on.

P4 Continue up vertical ice until the top of the climb is reached.

Location Suggest change

The route is the right most line on the Trophy Wall. The start is by the Postcriptum or a direct start can be had via two bolts at the roof but it's been known the crux hold broke making it extremely more difficult then it already was.

Descend via V threads.


Protection Suggest change

In the conditions I found, no rock gear was needed. A couple knifeblades are not a bad thing to bring though. Bring a few stubbies.