Avg: 4 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, Ice, Alpine, 542 ft, 4 pitches, Grade V|
|FA:||Bruce Hendricks and Joe Josephson|
|Page Views:||5,981 total · 52/month|
|Shared By:||Noah McKelvin on Mar 30, 2011|
|Admins:||Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra|
As much as I'd like to say I did it in WI7+ R condition, I didn't. I'll explain the climb in the conditions I found.
In 7+ condition Joe Josephson explains that the belay anchors are solid in the rock but besides that there is no gear leading, just sustained steep thin ice with a couple of overhangs.
P1 Climb the WI5 Postcriptum Pillar for 40 meters until you arrive at the hanging bolt belay. (Only bolts on the climb) Continue to stare at the next pitch.
P2 Climb up to the top of the pillar and enter the "Whipper Traverse." The pitons there are quite interesting. OR place a high screw and traverse directly right skipping the Whipper Traverse with a couple of M4/5 moves to Sea of Vapors. I did not do the Whipper Traverse and skirted right before it so I cannot speak for how hard it is. I have heard M6 or M7. Continue up funky vertical ice for a while until the ground eases in angle. (85 degrees)
P3 Continue up a fun pitch of exposed WI5 climbing until a belay can be made. If your lucky, there is sometimes a cave that makes one of the best belay stations I've been on.
P4 Continue up vertical ice until the top of the climb is reached.
Descend via V threads.