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Routes in Sandwalker Buttress

Bant, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Haciendo Dedo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Haciendo Polvo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
I'm Calling Your Bluff T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Men at Work T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0
Mormon Teabag T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Soaking in the Shade T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stolen Knee T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: SM, CB march 28, 2011
Page Views: 387 total, 5/month
Shared By: S.Mckinna on Mar 28, 2011
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The climb starts below a bush and ramps left up soft stone. It begins with OW into tight hands inside the OW. It then goes through some good finger locks up to another ledge. It then goes OW to a hand jam to finger tips up to the top. Some of the moves are committing and the stone is sandy and soft. It could be better with traffic and anchors.

Location

I'm Calling Your Bluff is located to the north of The Bant and Stolen Knee about 150 ft. It is a left ramping flake to the left of a small slab/cave.

Protection

I took Camalots: 2#5, 1#6, 1#4, 1#3, 2#2, 2#1, and a set of aliens or TCUs to fill in the gaps. I used more sizes for anchors: some hand gear in a crack to the south. Make sure to place a bomber cam @ the top for a directional. We then walked south to Stolen Knee and set anchors there to lower off of. I will probably anchor bolt the route later.

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