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Routes in The Owl

Leper, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Owl, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown Sport Route S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Joe Herbst, 1970s
Page Views: 366 total, 4/month
Shared By: Michael Kimm on Mar 28, 2011
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Start on a fingertips crack under a large roof on the south side of the formation. Proceed up the crack for about 25 feet and over a wedged block into tight squeeze full body opening that converges into a layback/fist crack running in the corner of the roof (east) for about 20 feet. Using minimally available smears and fists (occasional toe hook) move right under the roof to the edge. At the lip, mount a burly exit to stand up into a barely protected OW. Continue up the offwidth for about 20 feet until able to reach a helpful small handrail on the left. Continue to a large belay ledge.

An easy (5.5) chimney leads to the summit. 50 feet.

This is a route that where a five or six inch piece would be very well placed for a calmer nervous system. It is possible to downclimb on the back of formation, either through the narrow break on the right or a ramp sequence further below on the back.

Protection

Single rack to 3". A four inch piece might be appriciated.

Photos

Anatoly P.
Las Vegas
  5.10c/d PG13
Anatoly P.   Las Vegas
  5.10c/d PG13
Quite an amazing, burly, Joe Herbst imaginative style route that offers a truly powerful climbing adventure. How can any climber looking across from the Willow parking not to be hooked by a curiosity for a line with a roof dissecting a rocky stub up on the bluff?
The approach is about 20 minutes. You start with a finger crack under a large roof that somehow distorts a perception of a demanding traverse under the it.
Once I stepped above a chunky block that brought me closer into a tight squeeze gap, I could appreciate what the route was about. A powerful horizontal traverse using fists for placing pro will test your boldness.
We used 3, 4 and six inches pieces. Going over the roof lip required and intense power pull to offset the balance and stand up above. But it wasn't the end - after mounting a roof you get greeted with a runout OW immediately above that runs for over 20 feet until you reach a tangible handrail to pull on.
This OW is a real test piece and after finishing it, I definitely felt a changed climber. It could be a perfect route to feel accomplished on a short winter day. Oct 24, 2017