Avg: 2 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Joe Herbst, 1970s|
|Page Views:||366 total, 4/month|
|Shared By:||Michael Kimm on Mar 28, 2011|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionStart on a fingertips crack under a large roof on the south side of the formation. Proceed up the crack for about 25 feet and over a wedged block into tight squeeze full body opening that converges into a layback/fist crack running in the corner of the roof (east) for about 20 feet. Using minimally available smears and fists (occasional toe hook) move right under the roof to the edge. At the lip, mount a burly exit to stand up into a barely protected OW. Continue up the offwidth for about 20 feet until able to reach a helpful small handrail on the left. Continue to a large belay ledge.
An easy (5.5) chimney leads to the summit. 50 feet.
This is a route that where a five or six inch piece would be very well placed for a calmer nervous system. It is possible to downclimb on the back of formation, either through the narrow break on the right or a ramp sequence further below on the back.