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Road to Nowhere

5.9-, Trad, Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.2 from 6 votes
FA: Damon Johnson, Summer Colt, 2004
Colorado > Naturita & Para… > Sunshine Wall (River…

Description

This is the leftmost route at the Sunshine Slabs.

P1: Start next to Sandstoner's Highway working up and left through sometimes questionable rock to a belay about 20' right of a pine tree (100'). Some wires nuts / medium small cams can be used in addition to the 4 bolts. (5.8)

P2: Climb up and right, past about 11 bolts, to the top. There is an intermediate belay available, but it is not needed. This is mostly 5.8 with a couple of harder spots.

Rap 3 times on a 60m rope. You can take the 2nd rap to the ledge on Sandstoners for a better anchor. A 70m rope would let you combine the first 2 raps.

Protection

Bolts plus some medium wires / cams.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jess @ the first belay.
[Hide Photo] Jess @ the first belay.
Jess, just below the second rap anchors.
[Hide Photo] Jess, just below the second rap anchors.
John and Chad on the last pitch of Road To Nowhere.  Jess on Wide Open Spaces.
[Hide Photo] John and Chad on the last pitch of Road To Nowhere. Jess on Wide Open Spaces.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

S.Mckinna
CaƱon City, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Unless you really want to get to the top anchors, you could traverse right at the last bolt before the RTN anchor and belay at the top of Sandstoner's anchors instead. From there, you could rap Sandstoner's twice with a 60m to get down. Feb 22, 2012
coop Best
Glenwood Springs, CO
[Hide Comment] Very runout and loose rock, I would skip this as you first climb at the cliff and start on the others. Oct 28, 2013