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Routes in Sleeping Princess Area (FTGU Centre)

Baby Steps S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kids and Old Guys S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Off The Grid T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
One Finger or Two S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pig Pen T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Puzzle, The T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sleeping Princess T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Smart Grid S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mike Warn c. 2006
Page Views: 501 total · 5/month
Shared By: Dru B. on Mar 24, 2011
Admins: Kate Lynn

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This is the (currently very dirty) flake system with two bolts that runs up to the right of the scrambling approach to Pig Pen and sleeping Princess. Climb the curving flake crack and where it pinches out step left and jam up to the ledge below Sleeping Princess.


quite obvious low down as you approach the Great Expectations area.


Two bolts plus maybe a cam or wire


- No Photos -
This has been cleaned up in big way. It's seeing a lot of traffic and it has surprised a few people with its technical crux in the middle. Jun 1, 2011
Mr. K
Mr. K  
"Not very entertaining" is what a friend of mine said after climbing up this awkward, manky route. It may look tempting from the ground, but don't bother wasting your time on it. Do yourself a favour and take the hand line on the left to the ledge and cracks above. I would also recommend a name change. I've seen a kid trying to climb this thing and she hated every moment of it. She was screaming so loud they probably heard her on the golf course. I imagine the massive wedgie the harness was giving her didn't help, but that's beside the point. Definitely not a good one for the kiddies. Aug 27, 2011

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