Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,815 total · 18/month
Shared By: Bones Perkins on Mar 23, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: In critical habitat area for the Desert Tortoise Details

Description

Start off moving right on jugs towards first bolt. After reaching the first bolt, begin upwards. Make a mildly scary big move off of an undercling to more big holds and jug haul to the short but powerful and crimpy crux at the 3rd or 4th bolt, pulling to the alcove full of fossilized poop flow. You'll know what I mean when you see it... Either climb into the alcove and rest or just follow the lip to the anchors.
FYI, crawling out of the alcove to reach the anchors is a bit spooky. But the rest stance is sooo nice.

If anyone knows the FA, the actual length, or any other good bits of info, let me know.

Location

The short line in the back of the obvious cave at the middle of the wall.

Protection

4 or 5 bolts. 2 Rap bolt anchors.
It'd be smart to stick clip the first bolt.

Photos

Kenny Clark
State College, PA
Kenny Clark   State College, PA
Goss says it's 40' long. Apr 1, 2011
Bones Perkins
Rexburg, ID
  5.12d
Bones Perkins   Rexburg, ID
  5.12d
Hey, thanks a lot, got it updated. Apr 4, 2011
benjaminleaton Eaton   Sandy, UT
Zealot Video May 24, 2013
benjaminleaton Eaton   Sandy, UT
The hold at the top of the crux--the clipping hold for the fourth bolt that allows you to gain access to the alcove/poop-container--broke off in my hand today. In it's place are a couple of find cut gastons. This route is now harder than it was before. Dec 1, 2013
bwillem
the wasatch
bwillem   the wasatch
Not 12c...

either dyno for the sloper or summon some crazy power lock off. Mar 24, 2014
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Dang hard top move to access the poop hueco. A few positive crimps and some really crappy other holds. I failed to gaston, dyno, or perform any other trickery here. My bail biner awaits someone stronger. Aug 31, 2014