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Routes in Tree Crack Area

All Quiet on the Western Front S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Breakfast of Champions S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ethics T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goodbye Blue Monday S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jammin' for Jesus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Lickety Split S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mercury Topaz S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mr. Styles S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Phat Abbot S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rehab's for Quitters S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Rocketsauce S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
South Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tastes Like Burning S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tigers on Vaseline S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tree Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wasp, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Brent Hadley
Page Views: 58 total · 1/month
Shared By: Colby Wayment on Mar 23, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

The crux hits low, but some gumption is in order on the second half to clip the chains successfully. The route begins up on a ledge 15 feet up from the main ledge about 30 feet left of Tree Crack. It is route #64 in Mike's schoolroom overview photo.

Begin up a slightly overhanging bolted flake . The second bolt seems out of line to the right of the rest of the bolt, but this is where most people make a difficult mantle onto the flake system. I'm tall, and have never successfully stuck that mantle, which I believe is kind of height dependent in favor of shorties, so I figured out a sequence that climbs directly up from bolt one to bolt three using a 1 finger crimp. From there, climb through 20 feet via powerful moves, through thin crimps and micro edges for feet. This sequence ends with a tall stab to close pockets at the 5th bolt. This is considered to be the crux by most.

From here the route eases up, but stays consistent pulling through big moves between crimps and jugs for the next 40 feet.

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