Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Steve Bechtel
Page Views: 333 total · 4/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Mar 22, 2011
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

This burly extension pierces the obvious high roof above "No Left Ear". The boulder problem is quick and dirty but nothing to sneeze at.

Climb "No Left Ear" to the alcove below the roof, then move out to the lip utilizing a pair of sloping pockets. Grope over the lip for a hard-to-find pocket, then make desparate reaches to a set of big, incut edges, throw a foot onto the lip (but which one?), then pull onto the raspy slab.

Location

Continue in the Z-axis from the anchor of No Left Ear. No Left Ear is the third bolted line right of the leaning pillar.

Protection

Many bolts to 2BA with fixed biners, then 2 more bolts to a poor anchor that is sure to twist the heck out of your rope. Best to move left to the WWW anchor and lower off that.

Photos

Jesse Brown
Laramie,wy
5.11d
Jesse Brown   Laramie,wy
5.11d
Needs a hour or two of cleaning. Chossy, fun boulder pull over the roof. May 18, 2011