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Herdie Gerdie

5.8, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 1.8 from 81 votes
FA: Dick Williams and Dick DuMais, 1965
New York > Gunks > Trapps > a1. The Uberfall - left

Description

Just left of Dirty Gerdie there is a right-slanting crack and ramp. Go up this to its top, then straight up (crux) to a small ledge. From there climb the left side of the face to the top.

Walk off and downclimb climber's left.

The rock in the crux area is a bit slick. It's not a destination climb (a short crux followed by some easy, generic 'Gunks face climbing), but it always seems to be unoccupied and there are certainly worse 5.8s around.

Location

Left side of the Dirty Gerdie block.

Protection

Standard 'Gunks rack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Climb on from the left
[Hide Photo] Climb on from the left
Protecting the Herdie Gerdie crux with a .5 and a little blue BD stopper
[Hide Photo] Protecting the Herdie Gerdie crux with a .5 and a little blue BD stopper
Look up
[Hide Photo] Look up

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Super easy to set an anchor atop the block to TR this, Dirty Gerdie, Dogs in Heat , Red Cabbage, and Red Cabbage Right. Nov 15, 2013
Jon Po
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Glad this isn't 5.6 anymore... Nov 1, 2015
MacKenzie Gaze
Troy, NY
[Hide Comment] I liked that the most difficult part of this route is at the very beginning - very balancy and crimpy (when you can find a hold since the whole dang thing is polished as all hell), but then you're rewarded with a nice, juggy finish. Mar 15, 2019
Scott Doering
The Gunks
 
[Hide Comment] Holy wow I thought I’ve felt slick in the Gunks before! The beginning ramp seems like it was polished by machine. The crux protects well though. A .5 about waist high and a small blue BD stopper in the little crack just above your head (which I did weight test). Definitely helps to be tall. After that you’ve got nice horizontals all the way up. Fun climb. I’m surprised it’s always open. Apr 19, 2023