Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Dan Hague (2001)
Page Views: 2,886 total · 30/month
Shared By: Fred Gomez on Mar 21, 2011
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


37 Opinions

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

This route climbs impeccable stone, very similar to that of the Travisty wall at Beauty Mountain. The rock is sparsely featured, with some major vertical and horizontal breaks cleaving through the surface. Be prepared to pull some deep lock offs on small crimps and pockets to get from one horizontal ledge to the next. Expect really good rests split by hard technical face climbing. If face climbing is your forte you'll be well prepared for this route, but you'll still have to pull out the guns for the first two bolts of horizontal roof climbing.

Stick clip the first and second bolts appropriately so the climber doesn't deck if they fall on the intro roof section.

Location

This route starts deep back in a cave above a smooth rocky surface. The anchors are below a roof.

Protection

9 bolts plus anchor.

Photos

Tino F  
Absolutely 5star route. Diverse, strong, great rests...just classic. Narcissus is a POS next to this! The quality of the stone is impeccable and I can't believe I just came here for the first time after climbing at the nrg for 16 years. Aug 4, 2015
Zane D
Philadelphia
 
Zane D   Philadelphia
 
Ditto 100 percent! Aug 5, 2015
One of the best 5.12's I have climbed. A route I would hike back to just to repeat. Sooo good. Apr 13, 2018
Andrew Chen
Washington, District of Col…
 
Andrew Chen   Washington, District of Col…
 
I heard about this route from a guy who was raving about it one year after he did it, who in turn heard it from a guy who was raving about it TEN years after he did it. It lived up to the hype! Jul 10, 2018
David Haak
Indianapolis, IN
 
David Haak   Indianapolis, IN
 
So stellar, wish I had more stars to give. The jugs of the opening roof are little spooky and still kinda sharp, but nothing but bomber rock awaits after you pull it. The cruxes are unique, memorable, and kick-ass. If the approach to this thing wasn't a solid 40 minutes, it would see non-stop traffic. Nov 19, 2018