Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: Mike Baker and Leslie Henderson
Page Views: 2,156 total · 13/month
Shared By: S.Mckinna on Mar 21, 2011
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

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Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This route starts behind a 200 ft. pinnacle on the south end of it. I am sure the first pitch could be done on the north side as well but looks harder. The first pitch is a 5.5 chimney, with not a ton of pro but pretty easy, about 40 ft. I have seen people free solo the first part. Natural belay on a large ledge. Second pitch is the fun stuff that is mostly hands and wide hands up a slanting right strait-in crack for 160 ft. Belay from the top on a good ledge with a great view. The belay/rap ledge is north facing and kinda cold in the winter.

Location Suggest change

From the gate walk down the road for about a mile, almost parrallel with The Bant, head west into a side canyon. There is a climb or two on your right as you head west into the side drainage. Not far in you will begin to see a tall detached spire with the right leaning crack on the wall behind it. The climb is moslty east facing.

Protection Suggest change

BD camalots: 2+3 triples, a couple 4s, and a 5 could work up top. I haven't climbed it in a while but I think a single set of smaller stuff like TCUs will more than work. Belay and rap from the top on 2 fixed pins with webbing. Double 60m ropes.


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