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Prime Cuts

5.11, Trad, 85 ft (26 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 43 votes
FA: Jay Smith
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Tenderloins Wall
Warning Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

The start of this route looks tough but don't let this scare you away, it's easier than it looks. Thin cracks lead to a nice ledge about 10' up, followed by more fingers in a right facing corner. Past here the crack gradually opens up and then pinches down slightly near the anchor. The rock at top is a little soft but not to bad.

Location

Far left end of the wall near a leaning pillar. Two thin finger cracks about 4' apart mark the start.

Protection

Gear is in Camalots; one .3, four .4, three .5, three .75, three #1, two #2.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Twin finger crack start.
[Hide Photo] Twin finger crack start.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Sam Feuerborn
Carbondale
  5.11
[Hide Comment] I'd differ on the gear a bit, maybe 3x.3's 1x.4 (or orange metolius), 3x.75's 2x1's and a #3 camalot.

Stellar climb! Oct 24, 2011
Josh Ewing
Bluff, UT
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Quality. Longer and even more interesting than it looks from the ground. The crux crack switch is hard, but well protected. When it rolls over on the top, the climbing eases, but is still engaging. Feb 17, 2013
mike1
  5.11+
[Hide Comment] I thought the crux move was more like 11+ but I have big fingers. It was very powerful and felt like sport climbing move ? Nov 14, 2016
R Walters
Sonora, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Gear description is good. I got in one 0.3 for my first piece and then it was 0.4/yellow tcu size (and 1-2 0.5s) for the business. Memorable pitch! Apr 3, 2017
michalm
 
[Hide Comment] FA Jay Smith. Anchors have been fitted with durable lower off hardware courtesy of the ASCA. Donate today at safeclimbing.org to support this work. Oct 10, 2019
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] All sorts of gear recommendations but here's another one:

1 .3 Camalot
4 .4 Camalot (One with long draw, in the crux)
1 .5 Camalot
2 .75 Camalot
2 #1 Camalot
2 #2 Camalot
1 #4 Camalot (For the wide slot above the crux)

Despite being a lowly 26m long, this pitch throws quite a bit at ya. Not to be missed! Nov 2, 2020