Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 681 total · 7/month
Shared By: Skyeler Congdon on Mar 21, 2011
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A dirty, neglected multiplitch slab climb in between Supercrack Buttress and Blue Gramma. Be warned: the only bolts you'll be clipping are star drives.

P1: A short 5.6 flake. No anchor

P2: run-out face past bolts+thin wires. 5.10

P3: More slab.

With traffic and brushing, this could be a decent route and a pleasant alternative to single-pitch splitters. But the ASCA could put this route on the short-list for achor replacement. I'm adding the route to this database more to dissuade climbers until the bolts are replaced. Be solid at the grade!

Location

Follows an arching buttress/slab 200 yards left of the Blue Gramma Cliff. Begin right at the toe of the Buttress

Protection

A toothbrush, wires, quickdraws, screamers

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Princess Mia
Vail
  5.10- R
Princess Mia   Vail
  5.10- R
Super fun and absolutely a classic! Yes this is not what you expect at the creek but the total opposite. Three pitches of exciting friction. Not very hard but R rated. Pitch one follows easy seam and then you must build your own stopper anchor, but at a good stance. Second pitch has some fun exposure down the right side, leads to pretty good anchor (but bring extra webbing in case), the last pitch wanders left up some crazy and sandy rock. A few old bolts and very runout. Rap to top of P2 and then down the gully to the right.
Perfect alternative for a crack rest day and you will not see a soul. May 6, 2012