Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Jemez Cave (a.k.a. Crystal Cave) - CLOSED

Botox S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dope S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Faith S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Leper S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Leprosy S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Minutia S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
New 1 S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rosebudd S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Soul Crusher S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Unknown S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Lance Hadfield??
Page Views: 676 total, 8/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Mar 21, 2011
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Closed Permanently for Sensitive Archaeological Resources Details

Description

Start as for "Faith" in the back of the cave for the first 4 bolts. Where "Faith" breaks left continue up to the depths of the cave through easier ground and a great kneebar rest. Clip the 5th bolt and climb through some large huecos. A variety of crumbling holds, bat guano, and an opportunity to get the Hanta keeps this part interesting. From here use all kinds of trickery and core tension to gain the line of "Leper", this section is probably the crux. I also skipped what would be the 6th bolt.

Once on Leper pull the crux of that route and gain the break in the middle of the roof. Obtain a great rest, as you still have the crux of Dope to do, to exit the cave and clip the chains.

This route is given 12d/13a in the Jemez Rock guide, but I feel it is significantly harder. While it has more rests than other cave routes, there are more cruxes and the moves to join Leper are hard. In my opinion this route is harder than Dope and Leper, and very comparable in difficulty to Faith. So 13b seems like a good starting point. The movement is great, but the rock in the depths of the cave can be especially dirty and nasty if it hasn't been cleaned recently.

Location

Same start as "Faith" in the back right side of the cave. I believe the draws are brown at the start until you join the green ones of Dope.

Protection

Fixed draws to Fixed Anchors. Bring a single long quickdraw for the first bolt. Kneepads are useful as like everything else at Crystal Cave, the Kneebar huecos are sharp.

Photos

0 Comments