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Routes in Crazy Horse Buttress

(Mai Roo Reuang) I Have No Idea!!! S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
(Tood Ma) The Horse's Ass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
A Horse With No Name S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Wild Ride on a Crazy Horse S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Ahya! S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Baby Rock S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bamboo Finders S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Beehouse, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blood, Love and Steel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dangeours Joy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ding Dong S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dont Look a Gift Horse in the Mouth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Free the Spirit S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Headhunters S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Horse Knows the Wall, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Into the Sun S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's Got To Be Funky S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Just Give me More S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Magic Drop S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Muppet Show, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Partners (left) aka Steve Gumaer and Co,. S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Partners (right) aka Steve Gumaer and Co., S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reindeer Request S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rope and Rock S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thai Who Loved Me, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,401 total · 17/month
Shared By: Thailand Climbing on Mar 20, 2011
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

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Description

The hardest climb at Crazy Horse. Take the line immediately to the left of the ladder access rungs to the archway. The first 4 bolts go at around 5.11 climbing. From the 4th bolt the route is equipped with insitu quick-draws. The climbing gets increasingly hard and insecure with each bolt. Before maxing out with the 5.13c crux mantle as the last move before the anchors. A series of insecure slopers, tiny side pulls and downright tenuous moves comprise the bulk of the hard climbing. Has only seen a handful of ascents.

Location

At the top of the belay terraces and just to the left of the access ladder to the archway. Easy to spot, it's the only climb with pre-hung quickdraws

Protection

7 bolts, insitu draws

Photos

Nick Sullens
Yosemite/ Bishop
Nick Sullens   Yosemite/ Bishop
Getting to the fixed draws is definitely harder than 5.11. Don't get suckered into thinking it is easy. There is a hard move off of a tiny crimp to an okay sloper where you clip the bolt directly below the roof. Aug 6, 2013