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Routes in Crazy Horse Buttress

(Mai Roo Reuang) I Have No Idea!!! S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
(Tood Ma) The Horse's Ass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
A Horse With No Name S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Wild Ride on a Crazy Horse S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Ahya! S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Baby Rock S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bamboo Finders S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Beehouse, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blood, Love and Steel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dangeours Joy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ding Dong S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dont Look a Gift Horse in the Mouth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Free the Spirit S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Headhunters S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Horse Knows the Wall, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Into the Sun S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's Got To Be Funky S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Just Give me More S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Magic Drop S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Muppet Show, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Partners (left) aka Steve Gumaer and Co,. S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Partners (right) aka Steve Gumaer and Co., S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reindeer Request S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rope and Rock S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thai Who Loved Me, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport
FA: Francis Haden
Page Views: 1,320 total · 15/month
Shared By: Thailand Climbing on Mar 20, 2011 with updates from Francis Haden
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

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Description [Suggest Change]

A 3 star spectacular mega classic! A balancey first section for 4 bolts leads to a thread and a rest. The next section comprises of a super thin crux. Shoot for the big jug, it's as positive as you're hoping it is. The lankier can make it in a single dynamic move. The more vertically challenged climbers will need to find a intermediate foot hold to get the reach. People have been known to claim there is a micro-nubbin for the foot but really it's a case of just picking a section of rock and imagining there is a foothold. A short traverse of pumpy climbing leads to the beginning of a chimney. Either get into the chimney via a direct line on tiny finger pockets or take a line of jugs on the outside of the chimney then traverse in at the first bolt. A brief bit of respite is provided by the chimney, make the most of the rests in between bolts as the last move is a mantle into the belay is easy, on huge holds but a little thin on the feet and will happily spit off any climber who has spent all their energy.

a 2nd pitch is also available, though fairly crappy climbing contrasts harshly against the amazing quality of the 1st pitch so most people choose to rap off the first anchor. For the adventurous who dont mind the old dirty and dusty hold, the climbing though mediocre will take you right to the top of the horse's head and some spectacular views and summit feeling that easily justifies the 2nd pitch.

Location [Suggest Change]

Starts to the left of the 5.13 with insitu draws, just to the left of the ladder access rungs that lead to the Archway sector.

Protection [Suggest Change]

First Pitch: 10 bolts, 1 thread
Second Pitch: 6 Bolts, 1 thread

Photos

coachian  
 
Awesome climb! Try to get on it when it's not completely in the sun. Cool slabby movement lead to a fun little steep section. One of the best 11's on the main Crazy Horse Butress Oct 15, 2013

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