Type: Trad, TR, 110 ft
FA: Arno Ilgner and Kelly Moore
Page Views: 2,015 total · 21/month
Shared By: Rodger Raubach on Mar 18, 2011
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

Climb a steep, flaky face, unprotected for about 20-25 feet to a sloping ramp. Move into the right-facing shallow dihedral and follow it to the rim; primarily face climbing adjacent to the dihedral, which can be used for stemming and an occasional hold on the edge, but the crack in the base takes small pieces. Very continuous climbing, and easy to get pumped trying to place pro. A very nice line on generally excellent rock. Possibly the hardest route I've climbed at Fremont Canyon.

Location

The route is slightly downstream from Hemateria Left. Rappel into the canyon from a bolted anchor to a ledge at the water's edge, a 110 foot rappel.

Protection

Small wires, RPs, and medium nuts; could use small cams up to a #1 Camalot and smaller tricams.

Photos

Rodger Raubach
  5.10d
Rodger Raubach  
  5.10d
If you are new to Fremont Canyon and the local grading, it might be prudent to toprope this climb. The 5.10d grade may be a bit of a sandbag. I certainly thought it was verging on 5.11a. The original grade assigned by Kelly Moore was "only" 5.10c, but upgraded by Steve Petro in his guidebook. Better "eat your Wheaties" before doing this climb. Mar 19, 2011