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Routes in Slo Pony Wall

Coalition of the Willing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Peanut Butter and Jelly S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Screw Loose S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 230 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,009 total, 25/month
Shared By: Ken H on Mar 18, 2011
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Description

This is an extension to Peanut Butter & Jelly.

Pitch 1 5.8 (60 ft) - Climb Peanut Butter and Jelly

Pitch 2 5.10c (70 ft) - The Classic Pitch! From the anchor in the cave at the top of PB&J climb on tuffa features out the cave where is narrows down to about 4 ft wide and pull on to the face of the wall and continue up.

Pitch 2 5.10a (30 ft) - climb up the shallow corner and up to a sloping belay ledge

Pitch 3 5.10a (70 ft) - climb up the slab to the left and up some steeper climbing to the anchors.
I recommend linking pitch 3 and 4 and lowering to the anchor at the top of pitch 3 to belay the second.

Difficult back clipping will be required to get back to the anchor on top of P1.

Location

From the bottom of the cave in the center of Slo Pony Wall to the cave on the top of Slo Pony Wall.

Protection

P1 10 bolts, P2 13 bolts, P3 6 bolts, P4 10 bolts.
Nicholas L.
Raleigh, NC
 
Nicholas L.   Raleigh, NC
 
Pitch 2 coming out of the cave is incredibly fun and really exposed-feeling. Link Pitch 2 and 3 and back clean as you go up as the previous commenter said. From the top of the climb, you can rap down to the Pitch 2 anchors (the ones you might have skipped) with a 70m. From there, you can rap down to the water with a 70m and on to your boat if the tide is right and you weigh enough for there to be rope stretch. It's close though! Mar 30, 2015
ollieon  
I recommend linking up pitch 2 and 3. Conserve draws (bolts are often within reach of each other). Feb 2, 2013
greg t
Chevy, Silverado
greg t   Chevy, Silverado
One of my favorite climbs of all time! The name comes from the first ascentionists ( eric and matt of slo pony ) forgetting the wrench, climbing and wrapping off loose bolts. Was proud to be the 3rd ascent of this, after they went back to tighten the bolts. Tiger Beach is a great place to get kicked off of.. but I guess you had to be there. Aug 2, 2012