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Routes in The Wailing Wall

El Supremo Grande S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fit to be Tied S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Like Bookends S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Mark van Horn September ‘04
Page Views: 536 total · 6/month
Shared By: Bill Olszewski on Mar 17, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

This is another great line on the Wailing Wall! This one may have you fit to be tied, because it just doesn’t let up; it is the most sustained route I’ve climbed at RRCOS. There are two ways to start this climb: either work straight up to the left-facing corner to gain the first bolt, or start about 5’ to the right, using a great finger pocket to get into the large hole, then step left to the flake. Work up and left to the second bolt and take on the first crux; getting established up and left for the third bolt. Crux two comes at the fourth bolt, reaching a nice finger rail while having literally nothing for the feet. From here, the route eases off, ever so slightly, through a sea of tiny edges and smears. Passing the tenth and final bolt you will encounter the third crux, some off-balance climbing past two left-facing edges to reach the anchor. Rappel to descend.

Location

Fit to be Tied is the fifth bolt line from the left, just left of a large juniper tree.

Protection

10 bolts, bolt anchor.

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