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Routes in The Wailing Wall

El Supremo Grande S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fit to be Tied S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Like Bookends S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Stewart Green, Mike Heinrichs and Brian Shelton September ‘04
Page Views: 562 total, 7/month
Shared By: Bill Olszewski on Mar 17, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

The crux on Like Bookends is the start of the route. Work up to the first bolt on smears and tiny edges and be sure to have a good spotter, that first bolt is about 15’ up. Continue up on small holds and sustained climbing, past a couple large vertical flakes. Passing the fourth bolt the terrain is much lower angle, but still fairly dicey, as the holds are pretty much non-existent and it will be quite slick if there’s a lot of dust on the route. Above, move into the large flakes on steep ground. Work up the left side to the anchors. Avoid going right below the anchor; that undercling feels real nice but the huge flake is very hollow and the holds run out. Laying back that flake might just send 50 pounds or more of rock flying toward your belayer. Despite the occasional loose flake, this is a fantastic route and more difficult than any .10a in the northern part of the canyon, due to its sustained nature. Rappel to descend.

Location

This is the far left bolt line on the wall, below the large flake system.

Protection

7 bolts, bolt anchor

Photos

Kyle Katsos
Colorado Springs, CO
5.10a
Kyle Katsos   Colorado Springs, CO
5.10a
Starting at two underclings, travel north to Crimp City. Don't stay too long or you'll pump out. Keep trucking to Sloper Central and love that friction till you can rest on a slight ledge. Some sidepulls and buckets to an undercling finish. One of my top 3 faves at RRC.
Feb 22, 2015