Like Bookends [Suggest Change]
Avg: 2.5 from 11 votes
|Type:||Sport, 85 ft|
|FA:||Stewart Green, Mike Heinrichs and Brian Shelton September 04|
|Page Views:||622 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||Bill Olszewski on Mar 17, 2011|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
Description [Suggest Change]
The crux on Like Bookends is the start of the route. Work up to the first bolt on smears and tiny edges and be sure to have a good spotter, that first bolt is about 15 up. Continue up on small holds and sustained climbing, past a couple large vertical flakes. Passing the fourth bolt the terrain is much lower angle, but still fairly dicey, as the holds are pretty much non-existent and it will be quite slick if theres a lot of dust on the route. Above, move into the large flakes on steep ground. Work up the left side to the anchors. Avoid going right below the anchor; that undercling feels real nice but the huge flake is very hollow and the holds run out. Laying back that flake might just send 50 pounds or more of rock flying toward your belayer. Despite the occasional loose flake, this is a fantastic route and more difficult than any .10a in the northern part of the canyon, due to its sustained nature. Rappel to descend.
Location [Suggest Change]
This is the far left bolt line on the wall, below the large flake system.
Protection [Suggest Change]
7 bolts, bolt anchor