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Routes in Fairfield East

A Piolet for Leon S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Afterthought S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Apostrophe S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Che S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Devilution S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
French Blow S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Houses of the Holy/Presence S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kissing Marilyn Monroe S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
L. L. and L. S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Leon Trotsky's Hair S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Leslie's Arete S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nimrod S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Physical Graffiti S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pistol Whipped S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Realm of the Venusian Sex Pygmies S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Restless Natives S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Revenge of the Pygmy Sex God S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Say Hello to Geronimo S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Second Helping S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sorta Maybe Kinda Wild S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Treats S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West of Venus S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yer Own Private Idaho S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
rez ride S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: 1990s Bob Branscomb/Ed DeLong/Kristi Stouffer
Page Views: 351 total, 4/month
Shared By: bob branscomb on Mar 17, 2011
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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Description

Start below the initial overhanging wall. Clip first bolt and stem/face up and slightly right, then up to some good incuts and a side pull with the left hand to clip the third bolt. Work a bit to the left and up into a lower angle area. Pretty much straight up the very steep upper wall from there, the holds becoming very positive before the anchor. The crux is the initial overhanging wall and getting past the third bolt, though the upper wall is probably 10a.

Location

The next route left of West of Venus, on the left side of the Sex God Wall, right end of Fairfield East. Look for bolts on the initial overhanging wall above an undercling.

Protection

5 bolts and anchor.

Photos

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bob branscomb
Lander, WY
 
bob branscomb   Lander, WY
 
I replaced all the bolts on Geronimo last weekend with SS units. Also cleaned away the unnerving flake that was hanging above the anchor. It was barely on there. Phew. Nov 25, 2014
bob branscomb
Lander, WY
 
bob branscomb   Lander, WY
 
We did Geronimo a couple of days ago and a large block came off sometime this summer just right of the top of the route, fairly sizable. A nice bit of wreckage at the base is humbling. It didn't impact the route and the key holds to do the final moves to the anchor are still solid and intact.

The piece glanced off the hanger on the third bolt, however, and bent it over slightly. It is still easily clippable. I yarded on it hard lowering off and the bolt itself is solid and there are no cracks or nasties on the hanger so I believe it is still okay. I may go up someday and replace all the bolts anyway as they are Rawl 3-piece and have been there a while. Sep 23, 2014