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Boomerang
5.13a,
Sport, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 3 from 11
votes
FA: Mark Stevenson 2004
W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> Meadow River Gorge
> Upper Meadow
> 1. First Buttress
Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19
Details
- **NO PARKING SIGNS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED ALONG ROUTE 19 WHERE IT HAS BEEN CUSTOMARY TO PARK FOR MEADOW RIVER CLIMBING AND BOATING ACCESS. THIS MEANS NO PARKING ALONG ROUTE 19 SOUTH, BETWEEN THE BRIDGE AND UNDERWOOD RD.
THERE IS A NEW PARKING LOT ON DIETZ ROAD OFF OF UNDERWOOD ROAD, PLEASE CARPOOL***
Description
This route shares its first five bolts with 'Push' before diverging slightly right and heading through the hanging dihedral. The first five bolts of the route head through smooth white stone. Expect nice horizontal ledges, sloping crimps and a beach ball sized pod. This intro section is followed by a no hands rest on a giant ledge.
The second half of the route is a little steeper. Negotiate some long reaches between positive crimps to reach a large roof. Rest up at this point and then bring your lockoff strength for the technical crux. A redpoint crux awaits you in the dihedral. Grab the glue-merang hold, get aggro for a move or two, and then tech your way up the rest of the dihedral.
Don't cheat yourself out by climbing up the juggy crack to the right of the bolts.
Location
This is the first route you encounter when approaching the first buttress. Look for the large hueco around the third or fourth bolt.
Protection
11 bolts plus fixed biner anchor. A long sling on the first bolt in the hanging dihedral is a good idea and stick clip the second bolt.
[Hide Photo] Drew Davis on the top of Boomerang, 5.13a. Photo by Beth May.
[Hide Photo] Danielle, Boomerang (5.13a) 10/2011
Columbus, OH
Burlington, VT