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Routes in Oblivion Wall

Buddha's Gut S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Crack Ate the Pipe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat Chicks Tryin' to Be Sexy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Got a Dollar? S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gut Punch the Buddha S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hat Dance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Karen Carpenter S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pinch the Buddha TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 807 total · 9/month
Shared By: Evan Johnson on Mar 16, 2011
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Description

Fun face climb with reachy moves. Start can be hard for some.

Bolted well, but it felt a bit harder than 5.9 to me.

Location

Route is on the Oblivion (or Shortcake) Wall.

There is a tree to the climbers right at the base of the start and a few trees about 3/4 way up.

Protection

3 bolts to chains at top.

Photos

Sergio Bandiera
Houston, TX
 
Sergio Bandiera   Houston, TX
 
Gym style climb: grab the pockets and pull Mar 7, 2016
The springs on permadraws at the top seem broken. They don't quite open or close completely. Probably not dangerous to lead but it might be a little unsafe to TR. Apr 15, 2018

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