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"Pacman Gomez" (Unnamed)

5.11c, Sport, 50 ft,  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Bob & Carrie Robertson
Colorado > Canon City > Shelf Road > The North Gym

Description

This is a high quality, continuous line with great pockets, culminating in a pumpy crux. This one's in the sun until around noon.

Begin up an undercut dihedral, then move left to ledge composed of detached blocks. A short stretch of sharp crimps leads to some excellent, sinker pockets. A nice swath of smooth, cream stone with more great pockets leads to an easy groove and a slight runout. Strenuous sidepulls work over the capping bulge on excellent gray limestone.

Location

Hike ~5-6 minutes left (south) from where the approach trail meets the cliff to locate a buttress with three routes with red, bed-frame hangers. This is the center of these three routes.

Protection

6 bolts with red angle-iron hangers, 2 ring bolt anchor. A stick clip is recommended.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The left rope is on "Pacman Gomez", the right on Power Milk & Bagels.
[Hide Photo] The left rope is on "Pacman Gomez", the right on Power Milk & Bagels.
Starting up "Pacman".
[Hide Photo] Starting up "Pacman".

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] I corresponded with Bob & Carrie, and they confirmed these are their routes, but they either did not name them, or don't remember the names, so suggested that I name them. Mar 18, 2011