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Project

V-easy, Boulder, 17 ft (5 m),  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: unknown
Connecticut > CT Bouldering > Woodbridge Land… > Frankenrock

Description

V0 because its a project. This line is pretty difficult. Sit start to the left of Tree Hugger on sloper rail (1, maybe two hands fit) with good block for feet.. Make a few moves on edges into the most overhung, blankest sections of the main wall and somehow climb through it.

Protection

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Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Line goes through the blank, steep section to the right. There is not much chalk because there are not many holds.
[Hide Photo] Line goes through the blank, steep section to the right. There is not much chalk because there are not many holds.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

M Mobley
Bar Harbor, ME
[Hide Comment] NICE boulder! It is a CT/New Haven area gem for sure. Mar 14, 2011
[Hide Comment] Anybody know if this has been done yet? Was working on it today and was wondering if it has a grade/name yet Jan 27, 2017
cee dee
  V-easy
[Hide Comment] as far as i know it hasnt been done. Jan 30, 2017
[Hide Comment] Is this the project? Looks like a blast:
youtube.com/watch?v=7LlDmfX… May 20, 2024
Alex Lawson
Urbana, IL
[Hide Comment] @Joseph Niski, No, that link (which I guess has been taken down is version of Vice Lane (also at one point called easy consolation prize.)

The project I believe is to ascend the front face WITHOUT:
a) The good right hand crimp up and to the right of the right start hold in the easy consolation prize photo
b) The left-facing crimps on frankensteins lab that you use until you get a right hand on the block sloper. These are also the holds you get on when consolation prize connects into the lab.

So in my estimation the project is to either
a) do (hard) consolation prize to the crux gaston then someone climb straight up rather than cresting over left, or
b) do (hard) consolation prize into the good(ish) crimp rail on the right and somehow go straight up without using (vice lane/easy consolation prize/tree hugger)'s right hand good sidepull crimp out right.

To be super clear, that crimp is the rightmost circled hold in cee dee's consolation price topo photo. To be super clear, the other 4 circled holds should be (in my opinion) on, though that is really for the FAist to decide.

I've spent a good few sessions on this project and it is... difficult. Dec 12, 2024