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Routes in Sun King Tower, West Face

Sun King Direct T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Flagstaff Oldschool
Page Views: 758 total, 9/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Mar 12, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Sun King Direct is one of the most aesthetic lines to be found up here. The route tackles a vertical 80' pillar, with the middle section dominated by a large and unique scoop/hueco.

This is a mixed line, and the gear in the middle is hard to place, with the best pieces being small #4 wires. A #2 TCU can also provide some reassurance. A couple moves above this there is a good #2 Camalot pod before launching back into the scoop and the final two bolts of business. Crack system to the anchors.

A really good line, and worth the effort.


One of the entrance routes in the Upper Amphitheater.


small/medium wires, single set #1 TCU- #2 Camalot. Bolts.