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Routes in Sun King Tower, West Face

Sun King Direct T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Flagstaff Oldschool
Page Views: 776 total · 9/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Mar 12, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access Issue: Portions of Mt. Elden are closed (July 16th) for forest thinning Details

Description

Sun King Direct is one of the most aesthetic lines to be found up here. The route tackles a vertical 80' pillar, with the middle section dominated by a large and unique scoop/hueco.

This is a mixed line, and the gear in the middle is hard to place, with the best pieces being small #4 wires. A #2 TCU can also provide some reassurance. A couple moves above this there is a good #2 Camalot pod before launching back into the scoop and the final two bolts of business. Crack system to the anchors.

A really good line, and worth the effort.

Location

One of the entrance routes in the Upper Amphitheater.

Protection

small/medium wires, single set #1 TCU- #2 Camalot. Bolts.

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