PRINT: Rock Climb Geologic Time, Central Oregon

Geologic Time

5.11, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 3.7 from 10 votes
FA: Phillip Hranicka, Pat McCarthy, 3/08
Oregon > Central Oregon > Trout Creek > Main Wall

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure 2020 UPDATE/Private Land Boundaries Details

2020 Seasonal Raptor Closure Update: Trout Creek is open to climbing on May 15, 2020. The Golden Eagles have nested on the Warm Springs side of the formation.

SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.

blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…

blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…

ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND

Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.

Description

This thing is a total must-do. While it's not an enduro splitter, it's got varied and exciting pacing, enough gear for it to be a totally safe adventure, and super fun movement. Start out on moderate thin hands that lead to a leftward roof-traverse. Above the roof, lie-backs and fingerlocks quickly end as the crack pinches down and thin stemming moves on small gear get you to a classic thank-god hold and a rest. More insecure palming, smearing, and arete-pinching is interrupted by another jug where you set up for the final crux. Place your last pieces in the horizontal, and mentally prepare yourself for a wild and cruxy finishing sequence above the gear.

Location

20' to the right of Gateway. Look for the obvious roof feature.

Protection

Doubles BD #1-0.3, Triples of blue Metolius, and doubles down to green C3.