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Pure Pressure

5.14-, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: Ben Rueck
Colorado > Grand Junction… > Escalante Canyon > Cabin Wall
Access Issue: CABIN WALL IS ON PRIVATE PROPERTY Details
Access Issue: Private Property Details

Description

Start just left of "Passion For Pumping". Work up an overhanging finger crack past a bolt. Continue up a vertical, continuous, finger crack.

Location

This route is just left of "Passion For Pumping" on the Cabin Wall.

Protection

A bolt and gear.

Eds. The route has been led on gear.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

It is the crack left of the corner.
[Hide Photo] It is the crack left of the corner.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
  5.12
[Hide Comment] Although the route is long, there are many rests. I thought that this was more of a 5.11 to 5.11+. Thanks to whoever updated the anchors semi-recently. Anyone know any info about the thing crack with a bolt at the beginning that is to the left of this climb? Mar 12, 2011
chris righter
  5.14- PG13
[Hide Comment] Hey Jesse, I think this post is for the climb with a bolt to the left of Pumping Station. I don't think this route has anchors on it. I would be really surprised if it was ever redpointed. I got on it and broke off a lot of loose holds trying to get up it on TR using the Pumping Station anchors. The top thin crack after the corner/roof section is totally friable, shallow/flared, and very hard to protect. It is at least 5.12 to where the thin crack starts halfway up, and gets way harder after that...5.13 at least. I assumed it was an abandoned groundup attempt given it had a bolt at the start but no anchors. I could be wrong. Does anyone know if it has actually been freed? Apr 6, 2011
Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
  5.12
[Hide Comment] I should practice my reading skills some more.. Thanks for the Catch, Chris. Apr 6, 2011
[Hide Comment] I was told that this route has not seen a first ascent, and I believe it. My buddy TR'ed the first 3/4 of the route from the anchors on the route to the right and found that the rock has not been cleaned at all. Dirt raining down, holds broke off, not shoe rubber/chalk, loose blocks, no signs of wear on the crack, and no anchors. My buddy had heard that a guy tried it from the ground up and abandoned at the bolt. Definitely 5.13. Dec 31, 2011
rob pizem
5.13
[Hide Comment] After having given this a couple TR burns, it was clear that few people, if anyone else, have even tried this route. After one burn, I broke off nearly every hold that I grabbed. That being said, it is not 5.12 and most likely mid-5.13. It needs its own anchors and some cleaning and will turn out to be a fun climb. The opening moves are on some crappy rock and involve a shoulder breaker move on your left side as you pass the lone bolt. Climb over the bolt through a bit more junk to good placements and some power liebacking into the face above. Tips jams take you to the top. This route requires knowing where the gear goes up top in order to not take up your precious finger placements. Looking forward to cleaning it up and giving it a honest effort in the future. Mar 9, 2012
brad swanson
Ellensburg
[Hide Comment]

It seems bolts have sprung up on Cowboy Justice within the past month or so. Not sure how the rest of the community feels about bolted crack climbs, but I for one feel this is disgraceful. Nov 17, 2015
WadeM
Golden, Co
[Hide Comment] FA: Ben Rueck on trad!!!!!! Dec 14, 2015
Rich Farnham
Nederland, CO
[Hide Comment] Are the bolts coming out? They don't seem to fit the style of the area, and with the first ascent being done on gear.... Dec 15, 2015
WadeM
Golden, Co
[Hide Comment] Ben sent this and is calling it Pure Pressure.

rockandice.com/weekend-whip…

^^^obv not the send go Mar 4, 2016
chris righter
  5.14- PG13
[Hide Comment] PG-13 for preplaced ascent, R for putting it all in on lead.

Gear Beta:
(1)- blue Alien,
(6) - 0.2 yellow BDs,
(1) - 0.1 red BD,
(1) - yellow/blue offset BD,
(2) - red/yellow offset BD,
(1) - yellow Linccam,
(1) - #3 blue BD,
(1) - #6 green BD,

a couple ofslings. Mar 4, 2016
Aaron Furman
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] I was able to watch Ben send this, I have to admit watching this will go down as one of the coolest FAs I've ever had the pleasure of watching! BEN IS A ROCKSTAR with BALLS OF STEEL for this one!!!! Flared out micro crack for 70'...well done. Nov 21, 2017
Stig gles
Seattle