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Routes in Cabin Wall

Aunt Jemima's Hand Stack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Better Left Undone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Four-Wheel Low T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fred and Barney's Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Junk Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Left Horseshoe Finger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Left-facing Corner (unknown) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pair a'grins aka Unknown Roof/Corner T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Passion for Pumping aka Corner Pump Station T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pure Pressure (submitted as Cowboy Justice) T 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Rednekk Justus T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Right Horseshoe Finger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rustler's Revenge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rusty's Cave aka Corner/Cupped hands to OW (unknown) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
S Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
TH Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Blocks T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Twenty Too Short T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Awkward T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Finger Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown Fingers T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Willy's Hand Jive T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Ben Rueck
Page Views: 2,072 total, 25/month
Shared By: Slade on Mar 11, 2011
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Start just left of "Passion For Pumping". Work up an overhanging finger crack past a bolt. Continue up a vertical, continuous, finger crack.

Location

This route is just left of "Passion For Pumping" on the Cabin Wall.

Protection

A bolt and gear.

Eds. The route has been led on gear.

Photos

I was able to watch Ben send this, I have to admit watching this will go down as one of the coolest FAs I've ever had the pleasure of watching! BEN IS A ROCKSTAR with BALLS OF STEEL for this one!!!! Flared out micro crack for 70'...well done. Nov 21, 2017
chris righter
  5.14- PG13
chris righter  
  5.14- PG13
Psyched to finally have climbed this route after not thinking it was possible. I did a preplaced gear ascent (hey I have a family). Props to Rob for cleaning it and making everyone realize it would go, and props to Ben for the bold FA. I would love to know who Slade is and why he originally posted the route as Cowboy Justice, 5.12-. Ben named it Pure Pressure after his FA. The bolts have mysteriously been removed. PG-13 for preplaced ascent, R for putting it all in on lead.

Gear Beta:
(1)- blue Alien,
(6) - 0.2 yellow BDs,
(1) - 0.1 red BD,
(1) - yellow/blue offset BD,
(2) - red/yellow offset BD,
(1) - yellow Linccam,
(1) - #3 blue BD,
(1) - #6 green BD,

a couple ofslings.
Mar 4, 2016
WadeM
Golden, Co
WadeM   Golden, Co
Ben sent this and is calling it Pure Pressure.

rockandice.com/weekend-whip…

^^^obv not the send go Mar 4, 2016
Are the bolts coming out? They don't seem to fit the style of the area, and with the first ascent being done on gear.... Dec 15, 2015
WadeM
Golden, Co
WadeM   Golden, Co
FA: Ben Rueck on trad!!!!!! Dec 14, 2015


It seems bolts have sprung up on Cowboy Justice within the past month or so. Not sure how the rest of the community feels about bolted crack climbs, but I for one feel this is disgraceful. Nov 17, 2015
rob pizem
5.13
rob pizem  
5.13
After having given this a couple TR burns, it was clear that few people, if anyone else, have even tried this route. After one burn, I broke off nearly every hold that I grabbed. That being said, it is not 5.12 and most likely mid-5.13. It needs its own anchors and some cleaning and will turn out to be a fun climb. The opening moves are on some crappy rock and involve a shoulder breaker move on your left side as you pass the lone bolt. Climb over the bolt through a bit more junk to good placements and some power liebacking into the face above. Tips jams take you to the top. This route requires knowing where the gear goes up top in order to not take up your precious finger placements. Looking forward to cleaning it up and giving it a honest effort in the future. Mar 9, 2012
I was told that this route has not seen a first ascent, and I believe it. My buddy TR'ed the first 3/4 of the route from the anchors on the route to the right and found that the rock has not been cleaned at all. Dirt raining down, holds broke off, not shoe rubber/chalk, loose blocks, no signs of wear on the crack, and no anchors. My buddy had heard that a guy tried it from the ground up and abandoned at the bolt. Definitely 5.13. Dec 31, 2011
Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
  5.12
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
  5.12
I should practice my reading skills some more.. Thanks for the Catch, Chris. Apr 6, 2011
chris righter
  5.14- PG13
chris righter  
  5.14- PG13
Hey Jesse, I think this post is for the climb with a bolt to the left of Pumping Station. I don't think this route has anchors on it. I would be really surprised if it was ever redpointed. I got on it and broke off a lot of loose holds trying to get up it on TR using the Pumping Station anchors. The top thin crack after the corner/roof section is totally friable, shallow/flared, and very hard to protect. It is at least 5.12 to where the thin crack starts halfway up, and gets way harder after that...5.13 at least. I assumed it was an abandoned groundup attempt given it had a bolt at the start but no anchors. I could be wrong. Does anyone know if it has actually been freed? Apr 6, 2011
Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
  5.12
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
  5.12
Although the route is long, there are many rests. I thought that this was more of a 5.11 to 5.11+. Thanks to whoever updated the anchors semi-recently. Anyone know any info about the thing crack with a bolt at the beginning that is to the left of this climb? Mar 12, 2011