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The Remington Electric

5.11c, Sport, 105 ft,  Avg: 3.5 from 31 votes
FA: Tony Sartin and Terri Condon (June 27, 2009)
California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Pine Creek Canyon > Scheelite Canyo… > Mustache Wall

Description

This climb is rich with variety. The first 4 bolts climb up and left thru a beautiful black patina on crisp edges. From here cross a wide crack and head straight up on large holds thru a ramp system to a thin face crux under an overhang. Above the overhang easy but run-out climbing leads up and right to a bolt on the right edge of the large alcove. From here climb up and slightly left past 2 more bolts to the anchor.

Location

This climb begins 15' left of The Notorious B.E.G. It is a rope stretcher with a 60m. Please tie a knot in the end.

Protection

13 bolts to a two-bolt mussy hook anchor

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Great addition to the Mustache Wall! Jul 10, 2011
Wylie
Flagstaff, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] Great route! Belayers watch out, top of climb is still cleaning up. Jul 19, 2011
Vlad S
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] I counted 10 bolts. Sep 3, 2013
Tony Sartin
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] That's a shame Vlad. You missed some great climbing at the top of this route. After you pull the crux roof section, climb up and right (a little run) to a bolt on the right edge of the large scooped feature. Then continue up and slightly left a few more bolts to an anchor at 32 meters. I'm pretty sure that you climbed up and left a few feet after the roof and clipped the obvious "Not The Wheat" anchor. I'll explain this in the route description to alleviate future confusion.

Side note: I've lowered off this route multiple times with a 60 meter rope and it always just makes it with rope stretch. Always tie a knot in the end of your rope. Sep 3, 2013
Vlad S
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Tony, you are completely right. I climbed left after the roof. Thanks! What's the scoop on "not the wheat"? Sep 5, 2013
Tony Sartin
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Not the Wheat is IMHO one of the finest routes on the wall. A Brian Ketron creation along with the help of Tai Devore and Trevor Hobbs if I'm not mistaken. It went up and instantly made the cover of Climbing magazine a few years back. Trevor being the cover boy of course. It has a strange, fat, under driven buttonhead bolt right before the anchor. Originally, I was told that it was 11d, but some people have since claimed 11c. I personally would give it solid 11d/ easy 12a myself. Excellent regardless. Sep 6, 2013
Jeff Scheuerell
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] The obvious hold at the roof has broken off maybe making that move a bit harder if not just different but overall grade no harder. Jun 30, 2017
Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Stellar! Candidate for best 11c on the wall for sure.

One of the cruxes features some of the sharper crimps on the whole wall as you move leftward, so I'd recommend doing this one when your fingertips are ready for a bit of abuse. Jul 24, 2017