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Routes in Utahnics Wall

Celestial T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Diamondback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Good Ward, The T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Holy Moroni S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hype Dependent S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nephi Direct TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Oh My Nephi S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Telestial T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Terrestrial T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Utahnics S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Mike Anderson & Brent Hadley, April 2001
Page Views: 293 total, 4/month
Shared By: Mike Anderson on Mar 10, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Fun moves on excellent rock: A diamond in the rough. Climb up slabs to a ledge below the steep arete. Clip the second bolt then setup for a powerful dyno followed by steep climbing up big jugs.

Location

See topo

Protection

4 bolts

Photos

- No Photos -
Colby Wayment
Ogden, UT
Colby Wayment   Ogden, UT
It was originally done by, and still is by myself and anyone I've seen, with the left hand out on the arete (as its own pinch) and a throw from there with the right pinch to the horizontal, whether short or tall. That's the crux. I'm tall, so it's less of a dyno, but still kinda dynamic.

Also, the Schoolroom really isn't as far up there as I think it appears. With a good continuous pace, with rack and rope, you should be able to get up to the wall in 20-25 minutes. Jul 8, 2016
jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
 
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
 
Couldn't figure the dyno. There's a big pinch in the middle of the route just below the 2nd bolt. Folks with a big reach (not me) might be able to use the arete to the left to get up to the juggy part.

This route can be top-roped, if you don't mind an airy swing on a fall.

I'd like to work this route, but it is a long walk up that steep boulder field... I might not get back there soon... Sep 1, 2011