Type: Trad, Sport, 110 ft
FA: Kirk Miller, Jeroen Van Wolferen
Page Views: 1,074 total · 11/month
Shared By: Kirk Miller on Mar 9, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

Climb the slot with small cams and a few nuts to the belay ledge on Ugly Stick. Climb the crack in the face right of Ugly Stick protected by more wires and small cams. When the crack runs out, the real choss begins, but so do the bolts; all the way to the rim.

Location

This route starts in the shallow slot just right of Ugly Stick, left of Crash Test Blondes.

Protection

A 70m rope, slings, wires and cams to gold Camalot. Doubles in the smaller sizes help. Nine bolts to get you through the chossness, to chain anchors.

Take care with a heads up belay, and be sure to wear the helmets for this one.

Photos

Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.10a PG13
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
  5.10a PG13
Nice route, although it's shedding more than my dog in April. It should clean up some with use, but it is not the best rock up high. Still, it's fun climbing similar to Ugly Stick. Well bolted and easily protected trad down low. As for Ugly Stick, can climb in 2 pitches with 60 m rope. (Maybe 50 m, but maybe just barely?) Mar 12, 2011
AOSR
Wherever we park!
AOSR   Wherever we park!
Cool, man! I remember you were eying that line. I'll have to check it out! Mar 21, 2011
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
The crux on this seemed to be at the last bolt. It seemed almost as hard at the beginning, but the pro was adequate. RPs seemed nice to have. Mar 1, 2013