Avg: 3.3 from 12 votes
|Type:||Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Paul Stoner and Lucas Clarke|
|Page Views:||4,412 total · 36/month|
|Shared By:||Paul S on Mar 6, 2011|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Jesse Zacher, Monomaniac, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Tyler KC, Jared LaVacque|
The climb starts in a hallway between the tower and the buttress at a fist crack.
P1: Climb up the perfect fist crack. The wall behind you helps make this easy and secure. Once you climb out of the hallway, climb up the obvious OW for about 30' and set an anchor using big cams (old #4.5 and #5 Camalots work well). If you've gone through a window of sorts and see another wide crack system, go down a few feet and set a belay, you've gone too far. 5.8, 70'.
P2: Climb up through the "window" and wiggle/chimney up into the wide crack that splits the tower. I love this pitch, it's almost like spelunking in a way. For most of this pitch, the only protection you'll get are with Bigbros. It's fairly secure once you are fully in the crack, but a #4 Bigbro is essential if you want to protect the crux of the route (getting fully into the chimney). Wiggle your way to the top and if you chose tag the right summit via some face climbing on rotten rock and down climb back down and traverse your way to the left tower. Set a belay just below the actual summit using big cams again. 5.8, 80'.
To get down, climb to the high point, and walk across the summit to the other side of the tower, scramble about 15' down a wide crack to a small ledge with a bolted anchor. 1 rap on a single 60 m rope will get you back down to the ledge...and just scramble back down the hallway to the base of the tower.