Le Veuve Noire
Avg: 2 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 250 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Paul Stoner, Feb. 2011|
|Page Views:||543 total · 6/month|
|Shared By:||Paul S on Mar 6, 2011|
|Admins:||Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis route climbs a sustained and steep crack up the south face of the upper Irishman's Temple.
P1: this pitch follows the obvious crack through a roof to the second bedding seam on the tower. There's a nice pod with a ledge to set up a belay (#0.75 Camalots work well). The crack ranges from fingers to fists. It could be free climbed at 5.11ish (I'm only guessing, I happily just aided up the thing), the only problem is there's a lot of dirt in the cracks and most of the features on the face (and some in the cracks) are pealing off. C1+, 100'.
P2: continue up the crack via an OW that quickly goes to fingers through some junk rock. Free climb up the chimney with no pro for a bit to some more OW on some very, very soft rock. This will lead you to the top of a pillar leaning against the main tower and also to the top of P2 of The Cleansing. Use The Cleansing's anchor or continue to the top up the short face. 5.9 C1, 150'.
Rap The Cleansing in 3 raps (one short one back to the top of the pillar) with 2 60 m ropes. Be careful with the second rap down, the climb is overhanging and you'll be in the air and to the right of the next anchor, so you'll have to do a combo of swinging and running across the wall to get to the anchor, pretty exciting!
It's a beautiful summit up there, and right next to it is the untouched summit of the lower Irishman's Temple. And by right next to it, I mean you'll get the idea that you could just hop on over there. Flat landing, a little lower, I'm pretty damn sure it can be done and that it would be very similar to the jump on the Mace in Sedona.