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Routes in Poison Oak Boulder Area

5.10 Face S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Airplane Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Atom Ant TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bad Boys from Detroit TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Big Grunt TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big Squeak T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blasted Rock 3 - Center V5 6C
Blue Collar V1 5
Cast of a Thousand Stones TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cool Jerk S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Deport Jonny (aka Jonny Go Home) TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deport Jonny Forever TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Double Scoop TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elsa's Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eppy Birthday TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fade to Black TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Go With The Flow TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Golden Medallion V2 5+
Hairdo S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hamburger Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a V0 4
High on the Hog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Hollywood Shot T A3
Laker Girls TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Laying Down On The Job T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Left of the Tree 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V0+ 4+
Monkey Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Poison Oak Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right of the Tree 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V0- 4-
Skid Row V3 6A
Slap You Silly TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Starving In Stereo T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Welcome to Rubidoux TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Werner's Wish TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: TR, 50 ft
FA: Darrell Hensel, 2011
Page Views: 2,786 total, 34/month
Shared By: Darrell Hensel on Mar 6, 2011
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Technical crimping/edging on superb, bullet hard rock, followed by a brilliant 90 degree arete.

The bottomless left arete is the obvious objective, and therein lies the problem, getting to the arete. Start a couple feet left of Slap You Silly. A hard pull on sharp crimps gives access to a left traverse across the face on patina edges. From the large foot edge at the end of the traverse move up, then left to the obvious stance at the base of the arete. From here one can finally do the stellar arete.

Long problem with sustained moves, feels more like a route than a bouldering problem. The real problem isn't so much individual move difficulty as much as linking everything together. The sharp holds have a tendancy to chew one up after a few tries.

The arete is superb. To just do it by itself (maybe 12a), it's well worth pulling up past the edging to the stance at the base of it and going from there.

You kind of had to have been involved in the Woodson/Rubidoux skirmishes during the late 70's - early 90's to understand the name.

Location

On the main face of the IMAX boulder.

Protection

Two bolt anchor at the top of the arete.

Photos

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Yeah, those of us who frequented Mt. Woodson and Mt. Rubidoux BITD get the significance of the name. Thanks for another great "dime edge" masterpiece, Darrell. Sep 8, 2013
johannsolo
So Cal
 
johannsolo   So Cal
 
Arguably the best route at Woodson. A masterpiece! Feb 15, 2013