Type: TR, 50 ft
FA: Darrell Hensel, 2011
Page Views: 3,503 total · 33/month
Shared By: Darrell Hensel on Mar 6, 2011
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Technical crimping/edging on superb, bullet hard rock, followed by a brilliant 90 degree arete.

The bottomless left arete is the obvious objective, and therein lies the problem, getting to the arete. Start a couple feet left of Slap You Silly. A hard pull on sharp crimps gives access to a left traverse across the face on patina edges. From the large foot edge at the end of the traverse move up, then left to the obvious stance at the base of the arete. From here one can finally do the stellar arete.

Long problem with sustained moves, feels more like a route than a bouldering problem. The real problem isn't so much individual move difficulty as much as linking everything together. The sharp holds have a tendancy to chew one up after a few tries.

The arete is superb. To just do it by itself (maybe 12a), it's well worth pulling up past the edging to the stance at the base of it and going from there.

You kind of had to have been involved in the Woodson/Rubidoux skirmishes during the late 70's - early 90's to understand the name.

Location

On the main face of the IMAX boulder.

Protection

Two bolt anchor at the top of the arete.

Photos