North West Buttress
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 12 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||G Buzzi, G. Calzi, R. Prioli, N. Zeper 1974|
|Page Views:||99 total · 1/month|
|Shared By:||Tim Wolfe on Mar 3, 2011|
|Admins:||Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath|
DescriptionDescription general: This route climbs the left hand buttress as seen from the road below Passo Giau. Crack and corner climbing predominate. It starts to the right of the buttress until about 2/3 height when it moves out onto the arete. The route is quite solid and it is not polished. The right hand buttress also has a great route that is more difficult (Super Tegolina)
Pitch 1 30 m V: Climb the corner and belay to the left on a block
Pitch 2 30 m V: Step right off the block and continue up the corner to a belay on the left below the next crack.
Pitch 3 40 m IV: Climb a left slanting groove to a piton belay at a fork in the crack.
Pitch 4 40 m V-: More Take the right hand branch in the crack to scree covered ledges.
Pitch 5 10 m 3rd class: Traverse left until below a yellow corner
Pitch 6 45 m V: Climb the yellow corner for 20 meters then exit right up to slabs to a stance in the grey black rock.
Pitch 7 35 m V : Go up the black rock in a groove slanting rightwards for 25 m then move left to a stance on a lower traverse line with belay pitons higher.
Pitch 8 40 m VI: Traverse left passing a crack to go around the arete and climb a thin crack to a stance by a pinnacle.
Pitch 9 35 m V-: Step right to a crack in grey rock and a stance below a dihedral
Pitch 10 35 m VI-: Climb the dihedral to a hanging belay below a roof.
Pitch 11 25 m VI: Go right of the roof over to the arete and then right more to a stance below a groove and chimney.
Pitch 12 20 m V: Climb the loose chimney/groove to the plateau
LocationApproach On the road 638 coming down from Passo Giau there is a hard right hand hairpin turn followed by a 90 degree left hand turn 50 meters down. At this left hand turn is a parking space for about 6-8 cars on the north side of the road. Park here. There is a large pasture across the road with a marked trail (436) along the top side of the pasture that leads up to Lastoni di Formin. Follow path 436 for awhile towards Forcella Giau before leaving it and heading directly across the meadows to the base of the buttress. Start to the right of the rib of the buttress on a small tower whose base protrudes furthest down into the scree slope. Go up the grassy ledges and scree to the left of the point of the buttress and start in a left facing corner crack. It takes about 45 minutes to get there.
Descent This is very easy but very long about 2 hours back to the car. Walk the opposite direction of your vehicle across the long, flat summit plateau to the south east (no path) to reach the Rossa del Formin notch at the southern most end of the Croda Da Lago ridge. Descend to the south to the trail 435, then to the west and traverse below the South Faces of the Lastoni to reach the Forcella Giau and your car.
A shorter and much faster approach is to walk along the edge of the formation heading north and descend a scree filled gully then walk back under the wall to the trail and out to your car. (See photo)