Type: Trad, Sport, 130 ft
FA: Keith Guillory
Page Views: 2,686 total · 27/month
Shared By: kachoong on Mar 2, 2011 with updates from ddriver
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

This is a fantastic and overlooked climb. Up the unprotected easy slab and throuh a left-facing corner system at about 5.5. Then step right onto the headwall to clip the first of four bolts. Some of the best slab climbing in the park through these four bolts on knobby feldspar and perfect friction. Gain the ledge and bolted rap station.

Location

Starts on the perched ledge immediately left of Easier Than It Looks. Ascend the right-facing corner to get up to it. Or just climb from the ground. Two ropes to rap.

Protection

Gear to #1 C4 and four bolts.

Photos

mattm
TX
 
mattm   TX
 
A Great route well worth a visit. The slab climbing up high is reminiscent of Tuolumne and makes you wish it went on for another 100'!

From the Anchors it's 40m down to the ledge directly below. Scramble down off the ledge (climbers left) to get back to the base area below MOTB. Apr 30, 2013
Left of Harder than it Looks, fun, well protected. Well...after the first clip. May 6, 2013
EQueezy  
super fun route. bring 1/2" through 2" pieces to protect before the bolts. first bolt is about 85' off the deck. First gear is about 70' off the deck and there's a bit of 5.5 to get there. Oct 21, 2013
Tommy G.
Killeen, Texas
Tommy G.   Killeen, Texas
Fun route, I thought it casual for the grade. As eluded to in an earlier post, a rap from the anchors on a 70m leaves you a bit short of the large ledge, but it's a very easy down climb (in other words, 70m is fine, just pay attention to the ends of your rope). Oct 5, 2014