Type: Trad, Alpine, 1100 ft (333 m), 11 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Comici, Varale, Zanutti
Page Views: 10,028 total · 81/month
Shared By: Tim Wolfe on Mar 2, 2011
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

You & This Route

19 Opinions

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Description general: This is a stunning line up the left arete of Cima Piccola South face. It is very popular so you will certainly be sharing the route and the belays with others. The first pitch is a slick as glass from all the many ascents. If you feel you are off route – just look for well worn rock.

Pitch description:
Pitch 1 – 20 m V: Start just left of the arete at a steep dihedral starting near a horizontal ledge. The corner is very polished. Climb this short corner carefully to a stance on a pedestal on the right.
Pitch 2 – 30 m V+: Climb the yellow corner past an overhang on the right and over the next overhang.
Pitch 3 – 40 m VI: Follow the corner and climb a crack through a roof then easier climbing to the right to a stance
Pitch 4 – 30 m III: Climb up right on easy grey rock.
Pitch 5 – 30 m IV-: Climb right, up then right to the base of a groove with a shallow crack
Pitch 6 – 60 m III, IV: Climb the groove for 2 pitches to a stance below a yellow overhang where the wall gets steeper.
Pitch 7 – 40 m V+: Climb the wall up and left past an overhang. Climb a short distance left then up to a stance below and overhanging dihedral to the right of the arete.
Pitch 8 – 50 m VI: Climb the dihedral to a roof. Traverse left to a stance on the edge.
Pitch 9 – 30 m V: Climb the arete to a stance below the final vertical section.
Pitch 10-11 – 70-90 m: Two options exit – Option 1 -traverse 20 meters left to some cracks and chimneys and climb them to the lower summit below the main summit (V-). Option 2 – climb straight up on a bit looser terrain that gradually eases (V+).
Traverse left to the climb easy chimneys to the main summit, or go over to the descent.


Location: Start just left of the arete at a steep dihedral starting near a horizontal ledge. You can recognize the correct route by the extreme polish on this first pitch.

Approach – From Cortina, drive over Passo Tre Croci to Misurina. From there drive on the small toll road north east to Auronzo Hut and park. Hike towards the Rifugio Lavaredo until below the obvious center spire (right of Cima Grande and left of Punta Frida). Hike up the climbers trail through the talus/scree to the arete on the left.

Descent – From the minor summit descent right towards the Cima Grande to the obvious abseils. Rappel all the way to the col between the Cima Grande and Cima Picolla. Descend south to the scree and the path below.


Protection: Standard Dolomite - bring 1 set of camming units ½ inch to 3.5 inches, one set of wired stoppers, a selection of threads, many long slings and free carabiners to reduce rope drag.