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Routes in Monkey World

Beauty and the Beast S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chunky Monkey S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Curious George S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Monkey Bars S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wave, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 350 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Tom Cecil, Justin Day, Brian Cornwell
Page Views: 2,028 total · 24/month
Shared By: Drew Spaulding on Mar 1, 2011
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast! Details

Description

3rd pitch is the beauty, 1st pitch is the beast. The second pitch just connects the two.

P1 - Start with a couple of fun, overhanging moves out the left side of the cave, then easier climbing on sharp rock up the buttress. This is also the first pitch of "The Wave." There are two anchors at the top of P1... "Beauty" is on the right and "The Wave" is on the left.

P2 - Go up and sightly right - don't be lured by other bolts going further right.

P3 - This pitch is fun and follows bolts up into a small ledge at a small cave. Don't stop there though. From the top, traverse out left, wiggle through a hole in the cave, then finish up on the last 2 pitches of "The Wave." This finish slightly raises the grade, but dramatically increases the fun.

+++In 2006, Drew Spaulding and Adam Weiner established a 4th pitch above the "Beauty" pitch, but is not well equipped with out TRAD. gear. Climb up into the corner on gear, threads and a few bolts. Then tunnel up right and under the stalactite umbrella up to the bolted anchor (this pitch needs re-bolting). A wild ride!

Location

This route is located on an obvious prow of limestone that starts just a few feet from the path (I think it's a road now). Look for a fixed line running down the hill underneath the power lines. Scramble up a few feet and you're at the mouth of the "bouldering cave." The route starts with a few steep moves right above the cave.

Protection

4 pitches to the right of The Wave

Photos

Livia
Moose Jaw, SK
Livia   Moose Jaw, SK
Getting off P3 can be a bit of a pain but it was definitely the most fun pitch of the route. P1 isn't that sharp if you are used to the limestone at Shelf Road, CO Jan 18, 2008