Type: Trad, TR, 75 ft
FA: Dave Alden, Scott Tingley, Tassia Chamberlin
Page Views: 610 total · 6/month
Shared By: Dave Alden on Mar 1, 2011
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp, SCPC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Climbing limited to areas below observation deck. Details

Description

Begin by climbing an offwidth crack to a sloping ledge. Either make a small traverse left and up over a small overhang to another sloping ledge (5.8), or as a variation follow the crack straight up and over the overhang to the ledge (5.10a). From here move onto the face and up to an overhanging block at the top.

Location

Number 5 in order from the left(north) to right(south) end of the crag, as it appears facing the rock from the base.

Protection

Top rope or pro to 4 inch.

Photos

I wanted to do this climb, but couldn't find good anchor points to set a TR up from. It is just to the right of the observation deck while facing the rock. Aug 1, 2013
Dave Alden
Sacramento, CA
  5.8
Dave Alden   Sacramento, CA
  5.8
Setting a TR anchor for this route can be tricky. As you well know, the tree line sets back quite a ways from the top of this route. In order to set an anchor here, you can either:

Use close to 60' of webbing to extend an anchor from the treeline above or

Use traditional protection to build an anchor closer to the edge.

The last time I climbed the route I used the first option. You may even be able to find a small boulder up top somewhere to sling for an anchor. It's a very fun route though and worth the effort or setting a TR anchor.
Good luck! Mar 4, 2014