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Tinkerbell

5.12c, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 5 votes
FA: Chris Smith
New Hampshire > Rumney > Orange Crush

Description

I climbed Purple Microdot thrugh the crux, then traversed the lip of the roof to the left to eye bolts. Clip a knot below 2 bolts, securing yourself, then pull the rope thrugh to backclean for a smooth run. Get back on belay, then head up. The holds get bigger as the roof steepens, passing the duck's bill, then a crack to the top.

Location

Right side

Protection

Many draws

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

M Sprague
New England
 
[Hide Comment] OK, who has done this route lately? I bet it has some big spider webs on it now. It is well worth getting on, if you like steep climbing at the top of the cliff. I know I do! Aug 28, 2013
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] Just tried this thing yesterday as well as it's brother to the left (Peter Pan). I found Tink to pack considerably more punch. Honestly I still need to figure out a few moves. Really interesting climbing that gets extremely steep up top. Aug 2, 2017
Will McFarland
Enfield, NH
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] I did this one last season. Really fun and pretty hard for the grade, crux right at the anchors. There was a fixed nut at the top when I did it. Aug 7, 2017
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] The nut and the old piton are gone from the top of this route.I took a fall having clipped both and the nut came out first then I fell on the piton and it snapped in two sending me in the abyss below. Great and smooth fall. Jun 24, 2018
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] Finally sent this one. Unlocking the crux sequence was a serious challenge for me. The crux is definitely at the 3rd bolt. If you pull the crux, the rest is quite easy and super fun. Will is too strong of a climber. He never projects at this grade and because of that, he did not find the super easy sequence at the end. There is no crux what so ever at the end. Sep 25, 2019
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] I finally got around to sending this one. My first couple of attempts were on days when I was already exhausted from other climbs and it felt impossible. When I finally got on it fresh a few weeks ago I was able to do the moves but I still found it to be pretty challenging for the grade. Yesterday I did it with no proper warm up and got flash pumped hard but pulled it off... barely. I would say it feels 5.12d when compared to other routes in the area but it is admittedly not a strong style for me. it is pretty resistant for a short piece of climbing. I love the airy feeling up there at the end. Very worth while if you don't mind the logistics of setting up for an attempt. Sep 21, 2020