Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Greg Collum 96
Page Views: 2,978 total · 26/month
Shared By: Jeff Hebert on Feb 26, 2011
Admins: Brian Boyd, Tao Techakanon

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast! Details

Description

Easy 5.11 climbing on jugs through the cave leads to a tough move to pull the roof, then a couple more moves to the anchor. A bat hang and no-hands-rest knee-bar are both possible.

Cleaning

It's very hard, but doable, on lower. But seconding it would be dubious. So here's what I did. Belayer belayed not in the cave, but at the top of the fixed rope. I back-cleaned the first two draws, then climbed the route. On lower, I got to the fixed biner (left side of the shelf traverse) and went in direct. Unclipped the first draw from the rope (right side of the shelf traverse). Now, the belayer repositioned all the way down on the main trail, directly below the anchor. I clipped my side of the rope into the fixed biner, cleaned the first draw (might have to climb a bit on the traverse shelf to reach it) and lowered.

Location

In the cave just uphill from Playing with Fire. Walk uphill from the other climbs. You'll pass by a MASSIVE cave; skip it. The trail will then basically u-turn to the right and go uphill towards the wall. There's a fixed rope. You get to a cave, but you have to go back INTO the cave to find the start.

Protection

7 titanium glue-in bolts; retrobolted in 2006

Photos