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Routes in Fire Wall

Boob Tube S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Burnt Offerings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fire Show S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Fire Starter S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
For Helga S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Groove Tube S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Up in Smoke S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Hot Hernias S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Greg Collum 96
Page Views: 1,831 total, 22/month
Shared By: Jeff Hebert on Feb 26, 2011
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. Details

Description

Easy 5.11 climbing on jugs through the cave leads to a tough move to pull the roof, then a couple more moves to the anchor. A bat hang and no-hands-rest knee-bar are both possible.

Cleaning

It's very hard, but doable, on lower. But seconding it would be dubious. So here's what I did. Belayer belayed not in the cave, but at the top of the fixed rope. I back-cleaned the first two draws, then climbed the route. On lower, I got to the fixed biner (left side of the shelf traverse) and went in direct. Unclipped the first draw from the rope (right side of the shelf traverse). Now, the belayer repositioned all the way down on the main trail, directly below the anchor. I clipped my side of the rope into the fixed biner, cleaned the first draw (might have to climb a bit on the traverse shelf to reach it) and lowered.

Location

In the cave just uphill from Playing with Fire. Walk uphill from the other climbs. You'll pass by a MASSIVE cave; skip it. The trail will then basically u-turn to the right and go uphill towards the wall. There's a fixed rope. You get to a cave, but you have to go back INTO the cave to find the start.

Protection

7 titanium glue-in bolts; retrobolted in 2006

Photos

Seth Cohen
Concord, NH
Seth Cohen   Concord, NH
Ok, this needs more detail on 1) finding the climb, 2) climbing the climb, and 3) cleaning the climb.

1) Finding. Walk uphill from the other climbs. You'll pass by a MASSIVE cave; skip it. The trail will then basically u-turn to the right and go uphill towards the wall. There's a fixed rope. You get to a cave, but you have to go back INTO the cave to find the start.

3) Cleaning. It's very hard, but doable, on lower. But seconding it would be dubious. So here's what I did. Belayer belayed not in the cave, but at the top of the fixed rope. I back-cleaned the first two draws, then climbed the route. On lower, I got to the fixed biner (left side of the shelf traverse) and went in direct. Unclipped the first draw from the rope (right side of the shelf traverse). Now, the belayer repositioned all the way down on the main trail, directly below the anchor. I clipped my side of the rope into the fixed biner, cleaned the first draw (might have to climb a bit on the traverse shelf to reach it) and lowered.

2) Climbing. It's the craziest route ever. The one specific thing I'll say (spoilers) is this: it's an absolute blind throw to a good three-finger pocket, as the other commenter said. If you really want the flash, before the throw, you can traverse left on an undercling to take a look at where the pocket is, then traverse back and do it. Dec 28, 2016
Ryan Williams
London (sort of)
  5.12-
Ryan Williams   London (sort of)  
  5.12-
Used to be a biner on one of the bolts to help clean... gumbies always think they are getting a bail biner and take them for booty. Then they end up having an epic trying to clean the route.

Awesome climbing though! Jul 17, 2011
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
Absolutely one of the finest overhanging, ape-armed crank fests on this planet. Not to be missed if'n you're hitting the Tonsai trade routes. Can be quite crowded; best times are pre-dawn and late-late afternoon. Bring a photographer and bring some balls.

[SPOILER ALERT!] Doesn't hurt to have monkey arms and bat radar for the blind throw to a wonderfully deep, three-finger pocket to exit the cave.

Can be damned impossible hard to fully clean on lower. Potential for a bad wall-splat for seconds unless they're strong on 5.11. Might clean the easiest if'n you throw in a leaver draw on the third bolt and do a quick, micro down-lead for the first two draws.

Have fun flying! Jul 6, 2011