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Routes in Spook Outlying Boulders

Beer Bucket TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eric Scully V4-5 6B+
Heavy Metal V3 6A
Judas Priest V4 6B
Red Dwarf V9 7C
Spooked V2 5+
Substance P V8 7B
Type: Boulder, 6 ft
FA: Peck
Page Views: 532 total · 6/month
Shared By: EBee on Feb 25, 2011
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

A short but fun climb. In the middle of the South face. Sit start on a crimpy sidepull and an undercling pocket. Go straight up the crimps. You can either make a somewhat awkward top out straight over the lip or make a semi-dynamic move to a jug out right and top out. If you are taller this problem may feel easier as you can get a good heel toe cam in the start hold that you can keep until the lip encounter. If you are shorter you will have to crank on the good incut crimps.

Bob Broilo's guide has a nice description behind the history of this climb: infohost.nmt.edu/~bob/bould…

Location

Located on the Heavy Metal Boulder AKA The V4s. From the parking area, the main Spook bouldering area is to the Southwest. Hike the steep the two-track down to the wash and then up to the single tracks trails above. From here you can take the right fork of the singletrack which switchbacks up to the main area by the cliffs. The boulder is about 30 feet East of the main wall at the top of the cliff.

Protection

This one is short, a pad should do just fine.

Photos

Bob Broilo
Socorro, NM
  V4
Bob Broilo   Socorro, NM
  V4
Link is broken above due to ")" at end.

Try:
This one Mar 4, 2011