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Routes in Devils Crag 1

Northwest Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft, Grade III
FA: Jules Eichorn, Helen Leconte and Alfred Weiler
Page Views: 531 total · 6/month
Shared By: scottthelen on Feb 25, 2011
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Northwest Arete is a Loose and dangerous route.
Follow the Beautiful arete from White top to the summit of Devils Crag.

Location

From the head of Rambaud creek make your way up canyon to a long gully that will take you to the top of White Top Mtn and the start of the arete.
Down climb and rap the route.

Protection

Bring a light rack and rope with extra slings for raping
Don't forget your cover
jt newgard
Ventura, CA
 
jt newgard   Ventura, CA
 
The top portion of the NW arete is probably a Grade II-III climb from a high camp by one of the Rambaud lakes, and do-able by mere mortals.

To do the top portion only, get yourself over Rambaud Pass and traverse into the arete by skirting the southwest side of White Top (Peak 12262 on the topo). Then enjoy surprisingly solid and wonderfully exposed scrambling along the ridge. The rock is a much older, angular type of volcanic rock than your typical golden Sierra granite -- which makes for fun movements like you'd find in the Palisades.

After a ~15 ft downclimb into a notch, the ridge goes knife edge and the climbing ramps up to the next level! Summit views of the Palisades, Ionian Basin, Enchanted Gorge and more.

This is a must do for those looking to relive that old school hard man (and woman!) type of climbing, where reaching summits and exploring the range was the priority, rather than splitter cracks and roadside convenience... Jun 26, 2018

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