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Mugre Mugre

5.10d PG13, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 219 votes
FA: unknown
International > N America > Mexico > Nuevo Leon > El Potrero Chico > Virgin Canyon > Lower Virgin

Mugre Mugre

Mugre Mugre starts at the bottom of a large flake two routes to the right of Don Quixote in the Virgin Canyon.

Climb strait up the large flake on good laybacks and small feet. Towards the top the bolts end and you follow the shallow dihedral up left to the anchor of Mexico in Flames. Either fiddle in a nut or run it out to the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Steve on Mugre Mugre. Bomber rock, fun climbing.
[Hide Photo] Steve on Mugre Mugre. Bomber rock, fun climbing.
Finished with the lower flake (good footwork helps make this very enjoyable) and headed to the right hand flake. I found this transition "stretchy" but doable.
[Hide Photo] Finished with the lower flake (good footwork helps make this very enjoyable) and headed to the right hand flake. I found this transition "stretchy" but doable.
A big reach for this shorty. What a fantastic climb. You are easily rewarded by employing precise footwork.
[Hide Photo] A big reach for this shorty. What a fantastic climb. You are easily rewarded by employing precise footwork.
Micaela on the early moves of the climb. Red pants are courtesy of the Tuesday market.
[Hide Photo] Micaela on the early moves of the climb. Red pants are courtesy of the Tuesday market.
Orange clad climber stands at the chains - don't need to head all the way to Mexico In Flames anchors (Jan 2016).
[Hide Photo] Orange clad climber stands at the chains - don't need to head all the way to Mexico In Flames anchors (Jan 2016).
Mugre Mugre starts on a big flake two lines to the right of Don Quixote, the prominent corner.
[Hide Photo] Mugre Mugre starts on a big flake two lines to the right of Don Quixote, the prominent corner.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
[Hide Comment] Nice Lay backs, side pulls and face climbing!! Very fun and the retro bolting takes away form the R factor for most of the climb. The beginning and end will however get your blood pumping with some slightly longer run outs! A Few variations can be done with this route and the Bass guidebook can be slightly confusing on describing this area. Jan 10, 2012
Pink Thunder
Denver, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Fun, fun, fun, FUN. Jan 27, 2016
SLou Boo
Tacoma, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Don't follow the route line in Dane's book; go straight up/slightly right instead of up the unprotected ramp on the left. Retro bolting made for a much better lead. There's one spinner towards the top, but 8 bolts + 2 bolt anchor excluding the spinner. Feb 6, 2016
Jon Jones
Penticton, B.C.
 
[Hide Comment] Both Mugre and Mugre Mugre share the first 5 bolts. Just above the 5th bolt, Mugre heads hard right then up via 3 more bolts to a belay just below the Vandals Ramp. Mugre Mugre (original) heads slightly left to a corroded bolt with a spinning hanger and then up to an easy ramp which is followed to the same anchor as Mexico in Flames.


Edit. Feb 26, 2019. It looks like the corroded bolt with spinning hanger, referred to above, has been removed since my original post above. Feb 13, 2017
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
[Hide Comment] Best pitch at the grade in Potrero. Definitely G-rated, with the exception of getting to that first bolt, which is only 5.8 or so. Jan 19, 2018
Gabriel Seitz
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] When in doubt, go left near the top! Otherwise you'll use a bolt from the line to the right (Mugre) and skip the crux.

Other than the high but easy first bolt, this route is very well protected. Feb 20, 2018
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Best 5.10 climbing for me so far in EPC. Fun movement, almost feels like you're on a trad route.

You can also climb this route and traverse left to set up TR on Mexico in Flames. Bring 2 extended draws up top if youre going to do that. You can sling a small tree before getting to the last two bolts on mexico in flames Mar 4, 2021