Type: Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft (455 m), 12 pitches, Grade III
FA: Don Jensen and Frank Sarnquist
Page Views: 6,569 total · 54/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Feb 25, 2011
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker -, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Twilight Pillar is a great route on a outstanding peak with no easy route to the top. We climbed the route in late May with lots of snow around.
We gained the ridge directly below the start of the Firebird Ridge. From that point we traversed below the major snow field left on to the bottom portion of the Twilight Pillar and followed the lower ridge (5th class) to a nice ledge below the upper headwall. From the ledge there are 5 or 6 great pitches up to 5.8 that take you to the summit.

Location

Follow the South Fork Trail to Finger Lake. From Finger Lake gain the glacier and pick your poison.
Descent- follow the summit ridge north until you hit the rap slings just past the Firebird Ridge. Continue down following cairns to a small notch. During the summer the route is Class 3-4 but when covered in snow can be much more challenging. We did 5 or 6 raps.

Protection

Standard Alpine Rack
If you go early in the year take mountain boots and an ice axe
Some old pins can be found on route

Photos