Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,057 total · 53/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Feb 24, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

33 Opinions

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This is the nice hand crack in the center.


Gear to 4" or larger.


Simon H
Oakland, CA
Simon H   Oakland, CA
Good jams the whole way with excellent face features for the left hand. If this were in Joshua Tree, it would be 5.6 and have a line on it three parties deep. Don't believe the guidebook, you can lower (off of two shiny mussy hooks) with a 60m. Sep 23, 2011
Portland, OR
jfailing   Portland, OR
Probably the best moderate cracks in the Alabama Hills. Apr 9, 2012
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
awesome crack, definitely not 5.7 by jtree or valley standards. somewhat unpleasant approach, but worth it. the bolted route immediately to the left is also fun (around 5.9/10a) Nov 28, 2012
Justin Tomlinson
Monrovia, CA
Justin Tomlinson   Monrovia, CA
A 60m reaches the ground Jul 30, 2013
Russ Walling
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
Best crack on the wall, but that is not saying much. Feb 19, 2014
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
I thought this was pretty good and for certain the best on the wall. Blitzo, (rest his soul) clearly didn't climb this route or even walk to the base. The crack not only looks wide but is wide, if you've humped up your gear to the base you might as well rack up with as much as 4 1/2" if you've got it. You head up with a max of 2" you'll be hard pressed for gear in some places.

Anchors everywhere (4 total over 6' section). The route actually has a set of hangers with big-ol-buttonheads on it above the crack but why bother when there is a set of Mussy hooks 2' away that keeps the rope from running in the crack. Feb 20, 2014
G. Stetler
G. Stetler  
Good route, I used several pieces bigger than 2". Suggest at least 1 4"; couple 3". Approach and descent awkward and unpleasant. Oct 9, 2015
N California
grabski   N California
Good stuff. Still some loose bits on the face, but with such a nice crack your hands and feet deserve to spend most of their time jamming. I agree on racking up to a #4. An extra #3 and a couple extra #2s won't go unused.

Regarding the approach, as you leave the road and the initial clear path dies-out keep left and follow a faint trail as you start going up. Stay on the left side of the boulder field, then a little past half-way up move right to the center of the boulder wash and hop around to the base of Dinosaur. Mar 28, 2016
Colin Szehner
Oakland, Ca
Colin Szehner   Oakland, Ca
The approach feels long when its hot out and yes, bring wider gear, had to runout the top since I used it all below. Apr 25, 2016
Samuel Kahn
Santa Cruz, CA
Samuel Kahn   Santa Cruz, CA
Recently climbed some 5.7 cracks in The Valley and this felt about the same to me. Had doubles from BD C4 .75-3 and a #4 and they were all used. You can also get some C3s/micros in on the left side about 30 feet up which will save you from running out of gear at the top. Nov 5, 2018