Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Therapeutic Tyranny

5.11a R, Trad, 70 ft,  Avg: 1.3 from 6 votes
FA: (TR) John Long and Mike Lechlinski, December 1978, FL: Jonny Woodward, 1982
California > Joshua Tree NP > Split Rocks > Future Games Rock


This takes the line up to and out of the big hole, just left of the Bendix Claws. Climbing into the hole is not too bad, but is thin and unprotected. You can camp out in the hole before committing to climbing up and out on tight hand jams in slippery polished rock--except for the one sharp crystal biting into the back of your hand.

Gongratulations! You've completed the sandbag crux. Pull up and out, and finish on the enjoyable handcrack.


Just left of Bendix Claws. Look for the big hole in the wall, that's your route.


Gear to 2".

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Oakland CA
[Hide Comment] FA Big Moe? Feb 23, 2011
Riverside, CA
[Hide Comment] We top roped so don't give my opinion too much weight. But to me it felt harder than 11a while the protection looked safer than R. Would be interested to hear other opinions.

Fun climbing either way, would like to come back for a lead at some point. Feb 12, 2018
[Hide Comment] Harder than bendix clause. Sep 30, 2018